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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



rv 



HISTORICAL AND 

INTERESTING 

PLACES 

SAINT 
LOUIS 



'By 

IDRESS HEAD 

Librarian of the 
Missouri Historical Society 

Price 25c 

1909 









3ln mu pflsittnn as librarian au^ (Huratnr of tb? 
fHtflflnuri l^tstnrtrali>unrtij. 31 am itaturalltr aakc^ manij 
qurations about tl|p ritij of #aint ICouts — tl]p bpgtn- 
niitgs nf uartaua rntcrprisrs; tlir first puruts; liiaton- 
ral m\h tutrrrattug plarrs; mxh buillitnQS mxh ijrnpral 
tnformatian nf tntrrrst not only to utsttora. but to 
ttjoar Uuutg tu tl|r rtlg. 

(Ho tu a mcaaurr aupuly t^lis tuformation tu a 
roniiaF utag. paaUy arrrasibk, dl l^aur romptlrb this 
book. Itopiurj it mag mrrt ti)c rrxiutrrmnita m\h giitp 
aurlt tuformattou as 31 fcrl aluntlii be tu tlir poaarastou 
nf puprii i'atut ICoutsau. 



©CU251996 



HISTORICAL DATA. 




Pierre Laclede Liguest. 
a Frenchman, to whom 
jointly with his associates, 
Maxent et al.. the Spanish 
Government had granted a 
monopoly of the Indian 
trade, in 1763 seeking a lo- 
cation for his trading post, 
chose the site now occupied 
^p-'— -- ^-____^. by Saint Louis because of its 
jg advantageous position, but 

I to Auguste Chouteau, then a 

I -^to ^^'^' b^^^^^RS the honor of 

I ^H laying out the town and 

M erecting the first homes. 

Jp ' he being sent here for that 

^™'™"^^^- purpose by Laclede with a 

company of men in the Spring of I76_|. 

Later Laclede (as he usually signed himself) 
landed at the foot of what is now A\^alnut Street 
and named the post "Saint Louis", in honor of 
Louis XV, of France, and his patron saint. 

For many years Saint Louis was called "Pain 
Court", a nick-name applied to it in derision, be- 
cause of the scarcity of bread, due to the disin- 
clination to farming among the French. In 1804, 
when Louisiana was ceded to the United States, 
there were only two American families in the town. 
There were only three streets at this time. La 
Rue Royale (Main)^, La Rue de I'Eglise (Church 
Street) now Second, and La Rue des Granges 
(Barn Street), now Third, and most of the one 
hundred and eighty houses comprising the town, 



SAIXT LOUIS 



were built along the first two. At this time there 
were only two cross streets bearing titles, La Rue 
de la Tour (Tower Street) now Walnut and La 
Rue de la Place "The Place", being the public mar- 
ket. It may be of interest to know that in 1826, 
when a system of street names was adopted, the 
names of trees were used almost universally, 
though only a few of these are now in use — Chest- 
nut, Olive, Pine and Walnut, and south of Market 
a few others still retain the original name. In the 
western part of the city there are two streets bear- 
ing historic names — Grand Avenue and King's 
Highway. Grand Avenue was the eastern boun- 
dary of the "Grand Prairie" in pioneer days, and 
King's Highway w^as the old colonial road — prop- 
erty of the King. 

In 1804, when the transfer of upper Louisiana 
was made to the L^nited States, this Government 
insisted that it be received from France, according 
to the terms of the treaty with Napoleon. In order 
to do this, Delassus, Spanish Commandant at 
Saint Louis, must first deliver the country to some 
representative of the French Government, who in 
turn would deliver it to the United States. Pierre 
Chouteau was first chosen to represent the French 
Government, but was objected to on the ground 
that his residence here as a Spanish subject barred 
him. Captain Amos Stoddard was 
finally chosen, and arrived on the 
9th of March, 1804, and on his ar- 
rival run up the French flag as the 
Spanish descended. As the two 
flags met on the flag staff salutes 
w^ere fired. 

In deference to the French na- 
tion, and by request of the inhabi- 
tants, the French flag remained un- 
til the following day, March loth, 
when the same ceremony took place 
in raising the American flag, thus The Tri-FUgs. 




SAINT LOUIS 5 

Saint Louis has the unique distinction of having 
seen the flags of three great nations floating over 
her in token of sovereignty within the space of 
twenty-four hours — a distinction that possibly can- 
not be claimed by any other city. 

A petition for the incorporation of Saint Louis 
as a town was presented in July, 1808, but was not 
granted by the Court of Common Pleas until 
November 9, 1809, with a population of about 
1800. 

It was incorporated as a City in December 
1822, with a population of about 4800, and cov- 
ering an area of three hundred and eighty-five 
acres. Now it embraces forty thousand acres, with 
a frontage on the Mississippi river of twent}^ miles, 
and a population of over 700,000. In October of 
this year, it is planned to fittingly celebrate the 
one hundredth anniversary of the incorporation of 
this great city, and to erect a permanent monu- 
ment at this celebration in commemoration of that 
event. 

The first ferry across the ^Mississippi was kept 
by Calvin Adams, an American, below what is 
now Elm Street. This ferry consisted of two piro- 
gues tied together, with planks laid across the top, 
and his charge for bringing over a man and horse 
was $2.00. Adams also kept the only American 
tavern, called "The Old Green Tree House." 

The first record of unusual high w^ater at Saint 
Louis was in 1766, the next in 1785 — called "L'an- 
nee des Grandes Eaux" (the year of great waters), 
equaled only by that of 1844-185 1- 1858, and pos- 
sibly 1903. The last being in 1908. 

Saint Louis has also been visited by other dis- 
asters. In 1849 ^ great fire swept the entire river 
front and business section, destroying twenty-three 
boats and many blocks of buildings, the damage 
being estimated at $3,000,000. In the summer of 
the same year the cholera epidemic claimed four 
thousand persons, and in May 1896 a destructive 






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Petition for the Incorporation of Saint Louis, July 1808. 



SAIXT LOUIS 7 

cyclone swept over a portion of the city, destroying 
much property and killing many persons. 

The first paper published in the town was "The 
Missouri Gazette", the first number being issued in 
July 1808, with Joseph Charless as Editor, he hav- 
ing the contract to do the printing for the then 
territory of Louisiana. At that time the paper 
consisted of four pages measuring 12 >^ x 8 inches. 
Between 1808 and 1822 the name was changed sev- 
eral times. It was then called "The Missouri Re- 
publican"— later the " Saint Louis Republican", and 
in 1888 "The St. Louis Republic" under which 
name it is now published, having recently issued 
in 1908 a Centennial edition of exceeding interest, 
containing 168 pages. 

The fire department of Saint Louis w^as orga- 
nized in January 1810, when an ordinance was 
passed to draft all free male inhabitants above the 
age of eighteen years for service as firemen. All 
those south of a certain line were under command 
of Pierre Didier and those north of the line under 
Bernard Pratte. It was the duty of Captains Di- 
dier and Pratte to conscribe all these men and to 
call them out for drill at least one hour each month. 
Failure to appear for drill or for duty was punish- 
able by a fine of $1.00 with costs. Each house- 
holder was to provide two fire buckets of leather 
or other material, and to keep the chimneys of his 
house clear of soot, also under fine. This system 
proving inadequate for the growing town, an ap- 
plication was made to the Legislature of the Ter- 
ritory to charter a lottery for raising funds for fire 
protection, and in March 1817 this was done but 
the plan proved a failure. In 1818 two fire Com- 
panies were organized, the Saint Louis North Fire 
Company, and the Saint Louis South Fire Com- 
pany, and in May 1819 money was raised bv pri- 
vate subscription for the purchase of two "small 
rotaries in Cincinnati, thus the regularly organized 
volunteer fire companies came into existence. The 



8 SAIXT LOUIS 

hand engine was used until 1855, when the first 
steam fire engine arrived in December of that 
year, and the first fire alarm was sounded in Feb- 
ruary 1858, from box No. 2, in District No. 4. 
This was done by striking on a bell the number of 
the district and then the number of the box. Fire- 
men had to listen with an ear to a receiver to get 
the strokes, and as soon as this alarm was received 
the number was tolled from a big bell in the top of 
the central station, and from there was taken up by 
every church and public bell, so that the entire 
population soon knew where the fire was located. 

Modern fire alarm apparatus was not installed 
until August 1865. The department now uses a 




Early Fire Engine Used in 

St. Louis, 1836. 

Now at the Missouri Historical Society. 



SAIXT LOUIS '^ 

contrivance which punches holes in a narrow strfp 
of paper in every engine house in the city, at the 
sound of any fire alarm box, so by counting the 
number of holes made in the strip of paper the fire 
is located. 

In 1816, the first steam boat, "The General 
Pike," arrived in Saint Louis, and landed near the 
foot of Market Street, creating quite a deal of ex- 
citement. It was commanded by Captain Jacob 
Reed. 

The inhabitants gathered to welcome it,. 
among them a group of Indians. On its approach 
the Indians were filled with dismay and fled to- 
the high ground in the rear of the village. They 
ascribed supernatural powers to anything capable 
of ascending the river without the aid of sail or 
oar, breathing flame and smoke, believing it to be 
a monster. 

Prior to this transportation by water consisted 
of keel boats and barges, which had to be propelled 
by oars, setting poles and cordelle or rope. These 
were drawn up stream against the current, either 
by men walking on the shore and pulling it, or the 
cordelle fastened to some object ahead, and thea 
hauled on until the boat was brought up to the 
place where the cordelle was fastened. Traveling 
in this way was usually accompanied with grave 
danger, and often too, owing to some mishap, the 
boat would be carried down stream by the current 
possibly the distance just gained. The freight rate 
in the keel-boat era, from New Orleans to Saint 
Louis, was fifty cents a pound, or $i.,ooo a ton, 
without regard to the article carried. 

The first regularlv organized bank in Saint 
Louis, the "Bank of Missouri", received its chartei 
in 1816. Auguste Chouteau being the first presi- 
dent. Prior to this in 1807 Colonel Chouteau had 
conducted a banking and brokerage house, the first 
in the city. 

The first paving with stone on edge was done 



10 



SAINT LOUIS 



by William Deckers in 1818, on Market, between 
Main and the levee. The first brick paving was on 
Second Street in 1821. 

The first directory in the city was published in 
1821, by John A. Paxton, containing the names of 
seven hundred and forty-nine citizens and general 
information of the schools, churches, business 
houses, manufactures and the professions. Copies 
of this dii^ctory are on file at the Missouri Histori- 
cal Societv and The Mercantile Library. It is 
quite small, very much like a primer. 




Omnibus Line. 



The first system of transportation in Saint 
Louis was the omnibus line. This was started in 
1843 l^y Captain Calvin Case and I\Ir. Erastus 
Wells, then a young man, the line being called 
"Case and Wells". The route lay from the corner 
of Washington Avenue and Third Street, north on 
Third to "Bacherlor's Grove", near what is now 
Palm Street. The running ^ear of this omnibus 



SAINT LOUIS 



11 



was made for the United States Government, for 
transportation across the plains, and the body by a 
wagon maker on N. Second Street. Subsequently 
more busses were added, and the southern termi- 
nus of the line was at the National Hotel, at Third 
and Market Streets. Later Case and Wells sold to 
Robert Alac O'Blennis. Several lines were estab- 
lished with about ninety omnibusses and four hun- 
dred and fifty horses. After the bus hue was no 
longer adequate, the horse car was used. 




Horse Car Line. 



This was introduced in 1859 when the Missouri 
Railway Company was organized, Erastus Wells 
being the originator and the first president of the 
company. Tracks were laid on Olive street, be- 
tween Fourth and Twelfth Streets, and in July 
Mr. Wells drove the first car over what has de- 
veloped into one of the best systems in the United 
States. 



12 



SAINT LOUIS 



The Peoples Railway, with Robert ]\I. Renick, 
President, and Citizens' Railway, B. Gratz Brown, 
(afterwards. Governor) President, were also orga- 
nized in 1859. 

In 1885 the cable system was introduced, and 
in July 1887 the Lindell Railway Company made a 
persistent but fruitless eiTort to operate a car with 
storage battery, but after a few months of deter- 
mined work, abandoned it. In March 1890 the Union 
Depot line operated the first overhead electric line. 
The last horse car to be used in Saint Louis was on 
Jefferson x^venue, in January 1896. 



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Pay as You Enter Line. 



In 1899 ^11 t^''^ lines of the City, with the ex- 
ception of the Suburban, were consolidated under 
*'The United Railway Company'', the Suburban 
being included in 1907. 

During the year 1908 the United Railway 
Company carried over its City lines about 200,- 
000,000 persons — 16,797,890 more than in the year 



SAIXT LOUIS 13 

previous. Captain Robert McCulloch is President 
and General Manager of this company. 

Many changes have taken place in the con- 
struction of cars used. The earliest were for two 
horses, the body of the car from fourteen to sixteen 
feet in length, with a tongue that could be attached 
to either end. Another style, the body was on a 
pivot in the center, and at the end of the line was 
swung around, the trucks remaining on the tracks. 
The bobtail car was next introduced. This car was 
from ten to twelve feet long, with a platform in 
front and a step behind — the fare was dropped in a 
box at the front. These fare boxes had been used 
on the omnibus lines also. In 1874, the Northwes- 
tern, afterwards the Mound City line, used a two 
story, or "double decker", a spiral stairway led 
from the rear platform to the second story. This 
style was used only a short while. 

In 1835 a movement was started to have rail- 
road facilities into the city, and a meeting was 
held at the Court House in April of that year, 
called the "Internal Improvement Convention". 
As a result two railroads were eventually surveyed, 
though neither built, but in July 1851 Mayor Ken- 
nett removed the first spadeful of earth, beginning 
the Pacific Railroad, now the Missouri Pacific. 
This event took place on the south bank of Chou- 
teau's pond, being an occasion of great rejoicing, 
the entire city gaily decorated and members of all 
civil and military societies taking part in the pa- 
rade. The exercises were opened with the "Grand 
Pacific Railroad March", composed for the occa- 
sion by Mr. Balmer. The first depot was built in 
1852 by this road, at Fourteenth and Poplar Streets. 

Twenty-eight roads now enter Saint Louis un- 
der a system so perfect, that 247 distinct move- 
ments of trains and engines, or over four per min- 
ute, are made in one hour, with promptness and 
absolute safety, while handling the heavy traffic 



14 



SAIXr LOUIS 



concentrated in the morning and evening of each 
day. 

Within the past twenty-five years Saint Louis 
has become the largest manufacturing center of 
electric cars and steam coaches in the world. In 
every portion of the globe where cars are used, the 
traveler will find those of the ''Saint Louis Car 
Company." This company was founded in 1887 by 
J. H. Kobush. The original plant being located ar 
3000 N. Broadway, now at 8000 N. Broadway, cov- 
ering forty acres of ground, of which twenty acres 
are under roof. The Main or Baden plant is one 
of the sights of Saint Louis, and well worth visit- 
ing. \\\ K. Bixby, president. 




Daniel Boone. 



SAINT LOUIS 15 




Old Spanish Fort. 

STOCKADE ANT) FORT. 

In 1779, during- the Revolution, because of a re- 
port that the Commandant at Mackinac was plan- 
ning an attack on Saint Louis, a stockade was built 
to defend the town, made of upright posts set in 
two rows and filled in with earth. 

This defense completely surrounded the town, 
although extending only to the present Fourth 
Street, which was then woods. It had three open- 
ings for egress to the "Commons" and ''Common 
Field", and at either extremity was a fort com- 
manded by cannon. In the following year, 1780, 
occurred the attack by the Indians and British, 
known as "L'Annee du Grand Coup" (year of the 
great blow). This attack led to the erection of 
new fortifications. Beginning at Second Street, 
was a stone tower, and westwardly of it, where 
Broadway and Cherry Street intersect, a stone 
*'Bastion", between which was another stone fort, 
to these were added a half dozen square or circular 
stone fortresses forty feet in diameter and twenty 
feet high, connected with a high and stout stock- 
ade of cedar posts. 

These were kept supplied with ammunitions of 
war and well manned. One of them, the old Tower — 
the Spanish Fort, and the oldest fortification in the 
place, at about A\'alnut and Fourth Streets, from 
1806 to 1816 served as Court House and Jail. 
(Destroyed) 



16 



SAINT LOUIS 



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Old Court House, Chestnut, Market, Fourth and Broadway. 



SAINT LOUIS n 



OLD COURT HOUSE. 

The first l)uilding- erected to be used as a Court 
House in Saint Louis was in 1817, a small one 
story frame building, located on the west side of 
Third Street, between Spruce and Elm streets. 
After several removals to different places, the city 
was authorized to build a new Court House in 1822, 
and the present site was selected, bounded by 
Chestnut, Market, Fourth and Broadway and was 
the gift of Judge J. B. C. Lucas and Colonel 
Auguste Chouteau. In 1826 work was begun and 
the building completed in 1833, at a cost of $14,416. 

In 1839 the corner stone was laid for a new 
building on the same site, which building was not 
completed until 1862, at a cost of $1,199,871.91, and 
still stands a historic monument. This building 
is in the form of a Greek cross, and of Doric order 
of architecture. From the summit of its imposing 
dome a magnificent view of the busy section of 
the city is obtained. The stranger is well repaid 
for the necessary labor of climbing the long wind- 
ing stairway, by this bird's-eye view. This dome was 
original with Mr. William Rumbold, the architect, 
and afterwards patented by him. It has been pro- 
nounced by competent authorities, one of the finest 
in America. The magnificent frescoes in lunette 
of the dome were done by Carl Wimar, a Saint 
Louis artist of note, assisted by his step-brother 
August Becker. They were restored in 1904 by 
Edmund H. Wuerpul. These mural paintings are 
recognized as master pieces, and were much ad- 
mired by art representatives of the German and 
French Governments, who came to Saint Louis 
from Chicago, especially to see them, during the 
World's Fair in 1893. For this work Wimar re- 
ceived $1,000. 



18 SAINT LOUIS 

Only four of the eight original panels painted 
remain; these are "Westward the Star of Empire" 
— ''De Soto discovering the Mississippi" — "The 
First Settlers", and "The Year of the Blow", this 
latter representing an attack on Saint Louis by 
the Indians. Over the doors leading from the 
rotunda to the corridors, are four portraits by 
Wimar. 

This building was also made historic by the 
slave sales that took place on its steps. And too, on 
this site was located the whipping post of Saint 
Louis in early times. 

The 18,000 volumes comprising the Saint 
Louis Law Library have recently been moved from 
the old quarters in this building to new quarters on 
the seventeenth floor of the Pierce building across 
the street. The Pierce Building Company not only 
donated space for the librar}^ in its building for a 
period of twenty-five years, but equipped it with 
fixtures of new and modern design, including an 
automatic conveyer, the only other conveyer of the 
kind being at the Carnegie Library in Pittsburg. 
The one installed for the exclusive use of the Saint 
Louis Library, runs from the top floor of the Pierce 
building to the second floor of the Courthouse. A 
shaft two feet square was cut through to the base- 
ment of the building and the uprights of the machine 
stretch down two hundred and ten feet. An under- 
ground shaft, four feet square, extends from Pierce 
building under the street to the Courthouse, where 
it connects with a shaft in this building. Cars are 
attached to the steel cable which runs the entire 
distance of the shaft, thirteen thousand feet, and 
are so constructed that each car is always upris:ht, 
no matter what angle the truck may take. This 
conveyer will be used by lawyers when pleading a 
case and desiring a reference book from the library. 
A message will be sent for the book required and in 
three minutes the book will be before him. 



SAIXT LOUIS 19 



THE OLD SHOT TOWER. 

In 1844, Ferdinand Kennett began the erection 
of a shot tower on Elm Street, between Main and 
Second Streets, for the manufacture of ammunition. 
At an elevation of one hundred and seventy feet it 
fell, destroying several buildings. 

The material was then collected and a new site 
selected on Lewis, between Bates and Smith 
Streets, and the tower completed in 1847 ^^ ^ 
height of one hundred and seventy-six feet. 

For many years this was a most ]:)rofitable bus- 
iness, but later was entirely abandoned. 

THE BIG MOUND. 

At one time this mound, at the N. E. corner of 
Mound Street and Broadway, was one of the most 
striking and remarkable features of the landscape 
of Saint Louis, and one of the most remarkable 
archaeological remains in America, and with other 
surroundmg smaller mounds, gave the town the 
title of "Mound City". This mound was about 
thirty feet in height and one hundred and fifty feet 
in length. It was cut down in 1869, and many 
human remains were found at different depths be- 
low the surface. The French called it ''La Grange 
de Terre" (Earth barn), and a number of them had 
homes built on it, it covering at that time several 
bJocks. An attempt was made at one time to use 
it as a public garden, with a pavilion on the elevated 
ground in the center, but because of the refusal 
of one man to do his part, the scheme fell through, 
and one of the city's most interesting monuments 
was destroyed. 

Saint Louis might also be called the ''Cave 
City", as a large portion of the foundation of lime- 
stone upon which the city rests is pierced with tun- 
nels of natural formation. These have been discov- 
ered at various times in the building of the City. 



20 SAINT LOUIS 

Scientists have said that caves such as are found in 
Saint Louis are common in the glacial formation, 
and that possibly there exist at greater depth be- 
neath the City many other larger caves or grottoes. 
The most notable of these caves are beneath Union 
Station and the Coliseum. Another is found in the 
vicinity of Prairie Avenue, two blocks north of 
Easton Avenue, and possibly the most interesting 
are beneath the Excelsior Brewery, at Seventeenth, 
Eighteenth, Market and Walnut, formerly the 
Winkelmeyer Brev/ery, which located there prior 
to 1840. These latter caverns exist today as Win- 
kelmeyer developed and left them many years ago, 
fifty feet under the surface, and contain the tombs 
of this man and his sister, excavated in the solid 
walls of limestone. 

McDowell college. 

Afterwards called "The Old Gratiot Street 
Prison", located on Eighth and Gratiot Streets, was 
built by Dr. J. N. McDowell, for the accommodation 
of the faculty and students of the Missouri Medical 
College. It was seized during the Civil War by the 
military authorities, and converted into a prison for 
political offenders and military prisoners, and from 
1862 to 1865 many thousand men and women were 
imprisoned within its walls, not only Confederate 
prisoners, and even southern sympathizers, but 
guerrillas, bushwhackers, bridge burners, rebel mail 
carriers, spies, Federal deserters, robbers, murder- 
ers and criminals of every kind, as well as men 
of high official position, including Senators, Leg- 
islators and army officers. (Destroyed.) 

CAMP JACKSON. 

No trace of this Camp, memorable in Civil War 
times, can now be seen, but it is interesting to 
know where it was located. It was surveyed un- 



SAINT LOUIS 



21 



der the direction of General Frost, in command of 
the forces of the Camp, and Colonel John S. Brown, 
by Company A. (National Guard) Second Regi- 
ment, Missouri State Guards, May 2, 3, and 4, 
1861, and was the successor of *'Camp Lewis", 
named in honor of the great explorer of the west ; 
"Camp Jackson" being named in honor of the 
then governor of the state. It was located in "Lin- 
dell Grove", on Grand Avenue, between Olive and 
Laclede Streets, then a wooded valley on the 
city borders, and now covered by business 
houses. It was the fashionable resort of men and 
women of every age, class and condition. It was 
surrendered May loth, 1861 to General Lyon. 
Many of the men destroyed their swords rather 
than surrender them. The only one known to have 
been carried unsurrendered from the Camp, was 
presented to the Missouri Historical Society in 
1907, by Mr. Michael McEnnis, of Kirkwood, who 
was a member of the Camp. The surrender of 
Camp Jackson is depicted in "The Crisis" by Win- 
ston Churchhill, and used effectively in the stag- 
ing, in the Third Act. The flag made by society 
women of Saint Louis and captured at this sur- 
render by General Lyon is also at the Missouri 
Historical Society. 




^^"TjCJB 



Camp Jackson Flag. 



38 SAIXT LOUIS 

MEMORIAL TABLETS. 

One of the memorable incidents in Saint Louis 
history was the visit of the great Indian, Chief of 
the Ottawas, Pontiac, in 1769. He came to visit 
his friend St. Ange de Bellerive, then governor, and 
was received with great honor. 

During his stay he went to Cahokia, and was 
there murdered by an Indian, whom an Enghsh- 
raan bribed to kill him. His body was brought to 
Saint Louis and buried here. In after years the 
location of this grave was for a long time unknown, 
but afterwards discovered in making excavations, 
and in 1900 the St. Louis Chapter of the Daughters 
of the American Revolution erected a handsome 
memorial tablet to his memory in the great hall 
of the Southern Hotel, on Fourth and Walnut 
Streets, near where it was found his grave was lo- 
cated. 

In September 1906, the one hundredth anniver- 
sary of the return of the Lewis and Clark expedition 
up the Missouri through the west, the first, and in 
many respects the greatest of all explorations un- 
dertaken by our Federal Government, a bronze tab- 
let, to the memory of William Clark, was unveiled 
on the National Bank of Commerce Building, at 
the corner of Olive and Broadway. This bank is 
located on the site of Governor William Clark's 
residence. The designing and erection of the tab- 
let was done under the direction of the Civic 
League of Saint Louis, and was the gift of the 
National Bank. The tablet was unveiled by a 
great-great-granddaughter of Geo. Clark, Miss 
Marie Christy Church, and designed by E. J. Rus- 
sell. The safe keeping of the tablet is committed 
to the Missouri Historical Society. 

Another tablet, marking the birthplace of the 
much loved poet, Eugene Field, was unveiled June 
6th, 1902, at 634 S. Broadway, by ''Mark Twain" 
(Samuel L. Clemens), one of America's greatest, 
and Missouri's most famous author. 



SAINT LOUIS 23 

The ceremony was very simple, but witnessed 
by distinguished persons. Among the guests were 
Count and Countess Rochambeau, the Count de 
Lafayette, the French envoys, and the officials of 
the World's Fair. This tablet, of bronze, which 
should have been erected at 28 Collins Street, 
Field's true birthplace, was the gift of about eighty 
members of the University Club, the design and 
execution being the gift of E. G. Garden. 

The Current Topics Section of the Wednesday 
Club, in 1895, erected on the west side of Main 
Street, on the site of the Chouteau Mansion, a 
bronze tablet to the memory of Captain Louis St. 
Ange de Bellerive, who first established Civil gov- 
ernment in Saint Louis, January 21st, 1766. On 
this same site, another tablet, in marble, was 
erected in 1903, by the Jefferson Chapter of the 
Daughters of the American Revolution, commem- 
orating an expedition from Saint Louis, against 
Fort Joseph, Michigan, the nearest point flying the 
British flag, January 2nd, 1781. Another tablet, in 
bronze, commemorating the same expedition, was 
placed in the Missouri Historical Society, by the 
Jefferson Chapter. This tablet is the work of Miss 
Antoinette Taylor, a Saint Louis artist. 

Four other tablets have been placed in the Mis- 
souri Historical Society to the memory of Henry 
Shaw, founder of Shaw's Garden ; Ralph Sellew, 
originator of the evening schools in Saint Louis; 
Gerard B. Allen, prominent in business circles in 
the City, and founder of the Fulton Iron Works; 
and Major Henry S. Turner, a distinguished soldier, 
member of the Legislature in 1858 and assistant 
Treasurer of the L^nited States in Saint Louis. 

Other tablets to prominent men of Saint Louis 
and Missouri have been erected in the schools, hos- 
pitals and other public buildings. 

On the site of the old Hieh School, built in 
1856, the first in St. Louis, at Fifteenth and Olive 
Streets, the former pupils have placed a memorial. 
This tablet of bronze was erected in 1905. 



24 SAINT LOUIS 



HISTORIC RESIDENCES AND BUILD- 
INGS 

The earliest homes in Saint Louis were of 
stone, or of posts set upright and filled in with clay 
and mud, but in 1812, Bartholomew Berthold erect- 
ed at II N. Main Street, what was possibly the first 
brick building in the town, which building was oc- 
cupied by the firm of Berthold & Chouteau. Mr. 
Berthold's home, at Fifth and Pine Streets, was 
later to take a conspicuous place in the secession 
movement of 1861 — from this mansion floated the 
first secession flag unfurled in the City. 

The home of Laclede Liguest, the founder of 
Saint Louis, was built on Main Street, between 
Walnut and Market Streets. After Laclede's 
death, it was purchased by Auguste Chouteau, who 
remodeled it and it became known as the **Chou- 
teau Mansion". A corner room in this building" 
was afterwards used as the first bank in Saint 
Louis, with August Chouteau as president. The 
house was of stone and surrounded by a stone wall^ 
as were many of the homes at that time. In ex- 
cavating for the cellar of this building, the soil 
was carried away by the Indians in their baskets. 
This is said to have been the home of St. Ange de 
Bellerive, when in Saint Louis. 

At this home General Lafayette was also enter- 
tained in 1825 on Kis visit to the city. It is in- 
teresting to note that at that time the city officials 
had great difficulty in arranging financially for 
the entertainment of General Lafayette. 

At a meeting it was decided if the necessary 
funds could not be provided from the city treas- 
ury, some of the moneyed citizens would furnish 
the funds. Through the generosity of ]\Iajor Pierre 
Chouteau, in furnishing his home, and Major 
Thomas Biddle and Judge James H. Peck, who 



SAIXT LOUIS 



25 




tiiniished their ba- 
rouches and horses, 
the elaborate enter- 
tainment of the Gen- 
eral amounted to 
just $37.00. Now it 
is not unusual for 
thousands of dollars 
to be spent on the 
entertainment of a 
distini^^uished guest. 
This home has been 
destroyed. 
General James Wilkinson, the first Governor of 
the Territory of Louisiana, resided in Saint Louis. 
He had taken a very active part in the affairs of the 
country before his appointment, being a man 
of strong personality and pleasing address, but after 
his appointment as governor became unpopular, 
and was eventually accused of treason, and in the 
minds of many convicted. It was during his ad- 
ministration in 1805, that Aaron Burr visited him 
in Saint Louis. 

It was General Wilkinson who established the 
first United States troops in the cantonments at 
Fort Bellefontaine, near Saint Louis. 

At 55 N. Main Street, Captain A\'illiam Clark, 
the first Governor 

of the territory of 

Missouri, owned a 
two story building 
in 1816, used by him 
as an Indian office 
and Aluseum, he 



ha 



vine 



acquired a 



valuable Indian col- 
lection in his earlier 
trade with the In- 
dian?.. 

The first Gen- 



f ^''"^^ 



26 



SAINT LOUIS 



eral Assembly under the administration of Gover- 
nor Clark, met in 1812 in Saint Louis at the home 
of Joseph Robidoux, and the first constitu- 
tion for the State of Missouri was framed in 1820 
in the old Missouri Hotel, at the S. W. Corner of 
Main and Oak (now 'Morgan). 

The house known as the McNair house, at one 
time the home of Alexander McNair, the first gov- 
ernor of the state of Missouri, and long one of the 
land marks of the town, was located on the S. W. 
corner of Third and Spruce Streets, a tv/o story 
frame dwelling, now destroyed. 

William Carr Lane, the first mayor of Saint 
Louis, owned a two story frame dwelling at S. 
Main Street, and resided there at the time he was 
mavor. 





r 


m 


^m. 


■ 





The Alexander McNair House, Property of 
the First Governor of Missouri. 



Dr. William C. Carr, who built the first two 
story frame house in Saint Louis, owned a number 
of houses, and one of them, on Second Street, is still 
standing, as are a few others, in this locality, of the 
early homes before it became a city. 



SAINT LOUIS 27 

The Brant residence, at Eighth and Chouteau 
Avenue, a stately building bordering on three 
streets, was used in 1861 as the Headquarters of 
the Western Department, and occupied by General 
Fremont in that year. Here General Grant was 
given his first command, and the visits of Dorothy 
Dix, General Sherman and others lend an additional 
historic interest. Here also is laid one of the 
scenes of the "Crisis", and Virginia Carvel is seen 
wavmg her Southern flag on the walk in front of 
this home, while the General mounts his horse. 

Cracker Castle, so called because of having 
been built with money made by the owner, Mr. 
Pierce, 'in selling crackers (hard tack) to the sol- 
diers during the civil war, is another home associa- 
ted with that period, and for many years a place of 




Entrance Westmoreland Place. 

interest. It was built in 1859. and was at that time 
a magnificent residence. 

In the former home of James E. Yeatman, at 
nth and Penrose, the "Crisis" is again commem- 
orated, being the type of home shown in the 
Second Act. The interior of this mansion is pre- 
served in its original furnishings, and was visited 
by James K. Hackett, when playing in the Crisis 
at Saint Louis, as Stephen Brice. Mr. Churchill 
says that Brinsmade of this novel was James E. 



28 SAINT LOUIS 

Yeatman, and Brice is said to have been Henry 
Hitchcock, both these men being St. Louisans. 
Virginia Carvel, too, is said to have been a Saint 
Louis girl, the only daughter of James E. Yeat- 
man, now Mrs. Alfred Carr, who still resides at 
the beautiful country home ''Glencoe" erected 
near the original home, surrounded by spacious 
grounds wherein the groundwork of this historic 
novel was laid. Another home made famous by 
this book, is that of the late Isaac H. Sturgeon, 
1412 E. Grand Avenue. In the alcove of the 
library, Winston Churchill was married in 1895, 
to Miss Mabel Hall, a niece of Mrs. Sturgeon. The 
''Bellegarde" of the novel is this old Sturgeon 
mansion, built in 1841 by Beverly Allen, father of 
Mrs. Sturgeon. 

The log cabin home of U. S. Grant, afterwards 
General and President, has been restored to its 
original site, on the Gravois road, after having been 
carried about for exhibition, and is to be thrown 
open to the public by the owner, Mr. Augustus 
Busch, as a museum — to contain as many Grant 
relics as Mr. Busch can secure. The cabin is intact 
with the exception of a few boards cut from an in- 
side partition and used in framing the resolutions 
the Saint Louis Library Association tendered to 
Andrew Carnegie, as a testimonial of its apprecia- 



Entrance Portland Place. 



SAINT LOUIS 



29 




Entrance "Washington Terrace." 

tion for his generous gift of one million dollars. 
The old spring house has been preserved in its en- 
tirety, and the house itself is surrounded by a fence 
of musket barrels. The entire farm has been made 
an attractive park, and a unique observatory graces 
the top of a tree, affording a commanding view of 
the country for many miles. 

Almos't all of the historic residences have been 
destroyed, which is to be regretted, but the visitor 
will possibly find as much of interest in the 
modern homes of Saint Louis, in which Saint 
Louis art is probably best shown, and in the 
magnificent public buildings. There are few, if 
anv, cities that can boast of more beautiful resi- 
dence 'Tlaces", the oldest being "Vandeventer 
Place", bordering on Grand Avenue. In Vande- 
venter, at the home of Mr. Daniel Catlin, Miss 
Alice Roosevelt was entertained during her visit 
to the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. Others, 
''Westmoreland", "Portland", "Kingsbury", and 



30 



SAINT LOUIS 



"Washington Terrace", being among the most beau- 
tiful. These "Places" have handsome entrance 
gates, and landscape gardening. 

The only fire-proof residence in the city is that 
of Dr. and Mrs. R. J. O'Reilly, also in Washing- 
ton Terrace. It is of rough brick, giving it a 
rustic appearance — handsome bronze rails forming 
the porches and trimmings. 

Possibly the handsomest private residence in 
the city, is that of Mr. W. K. Bixby, on Kings- 
highway and Lindell Boulevard. It is of red brick 
and terra cotta, built by J. W. Kaufman, surround- 
ed by large and beautiful grounds, and was the first 
home in Saint Louis to be wired for electricity. 
Mr. Bixby has a large collection of valuable 
original manuscripts and rare paintings, for which 
he has an especial gallery. His collection being 
noted in this country and abroad. 




W. K. Bixby Residence. 



SAINT LOUIS 



31 



Mr. Charles P. Pettus also has a connecting 
gallery with a fine collection of paintings, etc., at 
his residence in Westmoreland Place. 




Home of D. R. Francis. 

Another beautiful residence is that of D. R. 
Francis, Ex-Governor of Missouri and President 
of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. This 
beautiful home at 4421 Maryland Avenue occupies 
almost an entire block. It is colonial in style, with 
large grounds made beautiful by landscape gar- 
dening. It was here President Roosevelt and Ex- 
President Cleveland were entertained during the 
Louisiana Purchase Exposition dedication exer- 
cises May 30th, 1903. Mr. Francis too owns 
many fine paintings, some of them purchased dur- 
ing the Fair from Foreign exhibitors. Fie has also 
received many medals and had many titles con- 
ferred upon him since the Exposition, by Foreign 
powers, in recognition of services rendered them 
during the Exposition. 



33 



SAIXT LOUIS 



-rn-™*. ^ ^ 


w 


1 1 1 


rc 


iiiiii 


IL 


lnJ 



Missouri Historical Society. 



SAIXT LOUIS 



33 



THE MISSOURI HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 



Now occupies the former home of Thomas Lar- 
kin, at 1600 Locust Street, once the fashionable 
residence section of the city. The purchase of this 
building was made possible through the generosity 
of James H. Lucas, who was the first President 
in 1866. 

This Society has a large collection of interest- 
ing original manuscript of French and Spanish days 
in Missouri, one of the largest in the United States. 
They comprise the original petitions of the early 
settlers of ^Missouri for land grants ; the original 
petition for the incorporation of Saint Louis as a 
town in 1808 ; early marriage contracts ; personal 
letters of the early Commandants and Governors ; 
suits ; sales contracts ; commissions, etc. Most of 
them in the French and Spanish more than one 
hundred years old. 

There is also an /\ interesting collec- 

tion of Missouri / \ relics, of interest 

to visitors, among / \ them — the first 

printing / \ press used 

west of Saint / \ Louis, and 

the second / ^. \ west of the 

Missfssippi. / ^^ \ 1) e i n s: t h e 




Early Lamps— Pabor Collection. 



34 



SAIXT LOUIS 




Room in Historical Society Building, Showing Part of Archaelogical 
Collection. 

one used at Franklin, Missouri, on which 
the ''Missouri Intelligencer" was printed in 1819; 
a small cannon carried on the boats of the Ameri- 
can Fur Company up the Missouri river, organized 
in 1808 as the ''Missouri Fur Company"; an old 
desk used by General U. S. Grant on his farm near 
Saint Louis (General Grant was married in 1848 
in Saint Louis at the Dent home, on Fourth and 
barah Streets) ; many oil paintings of the Terri- 
torial Governors and prominent men of Saint 
Louis; a large historical library; a collection of 
thirty thousand Indian specimens ; a flint lock gun 
of Daniel Boone's and others ; the sun dial made 
and used by Thomas Jefferson ; early fire engines, 
caps and badges used by the Volunteer Fire De- 
partment of Saint Louis as early as 1836; a clario- 
nette used in the first orchestra organized in Mis- 
souri ; the saddle of Jessie James, etc., etc. 

A large collection belonging to Mr. M. V. 



SAINT LOUIS 



35 



Pabor, who has spent more than forty years in col- 
lecting Missouri relics, was placed in the Society 
rooms in 1908, and the Figurehead of the battle 
ship "Missouri" has been recently sent to this So- 
ciety for preservation. 

An unfinished painting of Carl Wimar's — "The 
Attack on the Emigrant Wagon", upon which he 
was at work at the time of his death, has been 
loaned to the Society by Mrs. Wimar Becker, also 
an unfinished Indian head, both bringing out clearly 
his method of finishing as he painted. An interest- 
ing collection of drawings, Saint Louis scenes, by 
Carlos Roetter, another Saint Louis artist of earlier 
times, is owned by the Society. Prior to 1850 this 
artist received a medal, at the Saint Louis Fair for 
a painting of the Old Arsenal. A present day artist, 
F. L. Stoddard, has presented four paintings depict- 
ing "DeSoto on the Mississippi", "Marquette 
Among the Indians", "The Founding of Saint 
Louis" and "The Transfer of Louisiana." 

Most of the acquisitions of the Society are the 
gifts of those interested in the preservation of the 
history of Saint Louis and Missouri, and those who 
wish to be assured of the safe keeping of treasured 
family p a p- 
ers or relics, 
where they 
may be ac- 
cessible for 
h i s t o r i cal 
purposes or 
as objects of 
interest. 
Such g i f t>s 
and loans are 
much appre- 
ciated. 

The build- 
ing is open 

to V i S i t OrS p^l,^. Collection. 




30 



SAINT LOUIS 










SAINT LOUIS 



37 



each day in the year, except Sunday, from 9:00 A. 
M. to 5:00 P. M., and the public is invited to visit 
the rooms — no admittance is charged. This Society 
will erect a new fire-proof building as soon as a site 
is decided upon, many St. Louisans and friends in 
the state having contributed liberally for this pur- 
pose. This building is to be a portion of a much 
larger building to be added to as it becomes neces- 
sarv and the funds are available. 




Figurehead of Battleship "Missouri.' 



38 



SAL\'T LOUIS 




SAIXT LOUIS 39 



UNION STATION. 



The larj^est in the worhl, covers eleven acres, 
extending from i8th to 20th streets, fronting on 
Market and extending back to Clark Avenue. 
Including the power house it covers an area of 
twenty acres. All passenger trains into and out of 
Saint Louis arrive and depart at Union Station 
The Grand Central Hall has a floor area of eight 
thousand eight hundred square feet, the Midway is 
six hundred feet, by fifty feet, the train shed six 
hundred and thirty feet by six hundred and six 
feet. The corner stone was laid in July 1893. 

In the building a free treatment of the Roma- 
nesque style was used, as best adapted to express by 
historical association the purposes of the struc- 
ture, intended as an elaboration of the feudal gate- 
way. The tower is two hundred and thirty feet 
high, with four clock dials ten feet in diameter. 

The principal facades on Market and Eigh- 
teenth Streets are faced with Bedford (Indiana) 
limestone, backed with red bricks. The roofs of 
Spanish tiles. The eastern portion is built over a 
net work of caves and vaults, the interesting re- 
mains of the oldest brewery in the city, the western 
part extending through the^ historic Chouteau pond, 
where were found stumps, logs, hulls of boats and 
cabins twenty feet below the surface. 

The central feature of each story is a Grand 
Hall seventy-six feet by one hundred and twenty 
feet, from which one enters the minor apartments 
to the right and left. These two central halls are 
united by a grand staircase. An arch of forty feet 
span over the grand staircase is made a decorative 
feature of especial interest, it forming the frame- 
work of an allegorical picture in glass mosaic. It 
is the Grand Hall on the first floor, that will pos- 
sibly attract most interest, demanding a treatment 
which would intensify its architectural importance. 
The walls start with a dado of dark green faience 



40 SAINT LOUIS 

blocks. Between this and the bracketed frieze 
(eighteen feet from the floor line) the plain wall 
surfaces are lined with scagliola in tints and vein- 
ings of green and yellow. The brackets of the 
frieze, the capitals of the clustered columns, and 
other ornaments in relief, are touched with gold 
leaf. 

The ornamental ribs of the vaulted ceilings 
are covered solid with gold. The ceiling panels 
are painted in a greenish-yellow, enriched with 
stencil work. The deeply recessed background of 
the end arches and arched galleries is in a dull 
blue, giving them apparently immense depth and 
distance. The end walls of the Grand Hall are 
pierced with an arch of forty feet span. The 
sweep over the arch, between a rich quirk bead 
in solid gold and the ceiling angle, is decorated 
with low relief tracery emerging from female fig- 
ures with, torches in their uplifted hands. In this 
Hall is a wrought iron electrolier of twenty foot 
spread, with three hundred and fifty lamps. It 
is believed to be the largest chandelier in this 
country. 

The corridor leading from the Grand Hall to 
the Dining Hall is interesting for its ceiling, which 
has the Gothic fan tracerv, of the Tudor period, the 
fans terminating in pendants containing the elec- 
tric lights. It is handled in strong colors. This 
passageway is called the "Gothic Corridor". 



I>iVl 


1 ' A 



SAIXT LOUIS 



41 




Tower Group, Union Station. 



42 SAIXT LOUIS 

All parts of the world contributed to the fitting 
up of this great building. The mosaic floor of the 
ladies' waiting room is of Belgian manufacture. 
The interlocking floor tile in the Grand Hall and 
dining room came from England. The plain floor 
tile used in the basement and the enameled tile 
wainscot in the ladies' room was furnished by 
Germany. There is Numidian marble from Africa, 
Sienna and white marbles from Italy. The beau- 
tiful green marble called Vert Campagne comes 
from France. Alps green marble from Switzer- 
land, is in the Gothic Corridor. Marbles from 
Georgia, Tennessee and Vermont are also used, 
the jet-black marble in the dining room being from 
New York. Mr. Porter White, of Saint Louis, 
executed the relief work in plaster from models 
by Mr. William Bailey, of this city, and Mr. Ro- 
bert Bringhurst, sculptor, of Saint Louis, mod- 
eled the figures for this building, Messrs Davis & 
Chambers, of Saint Louis, doing all the stained 
glass and Venetian mosaic work. 

In January of this year the first bank to be op- 
erated in a railroad' station in the United States was 
opened in Union Station, and the first bank in Saint 
Louis to be run practically day and night. Thus 
Union Station in its entirety is a small city in itself. 

The new Post Office is to be built near Union 
Station, on the block bounded by Seventeenth, 
Eighteenth, Walnut and Clark Streets, the build- 
ing to cover three-fourths of the block at an ex- 
penditure of $1,500,000. For several years after 
the cession, the nearest Post Office was Cahokia, 
Illinois, Avhere the mails arrived once a month, 
but in 1808, a Post Office was established at Saint 
Louis, with Rufus Easton as postmaster. At this 
time there was no mail from the W'est, and that 
from the East only arrived twice a week, the total 
amount of mail handled being forty pounds per 
week ; now Mr. Wyman, our present postmaster, 
employs one thousand seven hundred and forty- 



SAINT LOUIS 43 

three assistants, with an average of one hundred 
and fifty-eight thousand pounds of mail matter 
each day. During the year 1908, 435,824,708 pieces 
of ordinary mail were handled. 

On November 9th, 1908, John Easton Brown, 
the three year old son of 'Mrs. Catherine Easton 
Brown, a great-granddaughter of Rufus Easton, 
broke the first spadeful of earth for the erection 
of the new post ofiice, followed successively by 
Mayor Rolla Wells, whose father Erastus W-ells 
nearly forty years ago, as Congressman, secured the 
appropriation for the present Post Office, located on 
the block bounded by Eighth, Ninth, Olive and 
Locust Streets ; Congressman Richard Bartholdt, 
to whom the city is most indebted for the new 
Post Office, and Postmaster Frank Wyman. The 
exercises being conducted by James E. Smith, 
president of the Business Men's League, the music 
being furnished by the carriers' band. 

The plan of building is termed the "St. Louis 
idea", being the first of its kind in the United 
States devoted entirely to postal work, and is to 
be a model for the entire country. It is to be a 
two story building, constructed for work and not 
for show, as so many of the present day post of- 
fices are, affording by means of glass roofs both 
natural light and ventilation. Another feature of 
this idea is the connection with Union Station by 
a subterranean tunnel, so that within five or ten 
mmutes after the arrival of a train, a letter can be 
ready for the delivery, either by mail car or ear- 
ner. 



44 



SAINT LOUIS 




S.t/XT LOUIS 45 



LIBRARIES. 

The Mercantile Library, oj^ened in 1846 under 
the management of the Mercantile Library As- 
sociation. This Library is on Locust Street, be- 
tween Broadway and Sixth Street, occupying the 
entire sixth floor of the Mercantile Library Build- 
ing. 

In i85r the present site was purchased and a 
building erected, at a cost of $100,000, and in 
1885 this building was torn down and a new fire 
proof building was erected, this property now 
valued at $400,000. The style is Romanesque — 
Henry S. Isaac, Architect. It is built of granite, 
brick, terra cotta and iron. The lower story is 
of red granite, the entrance on Locust of granite 
work, round arched with columns and richly carved 
captitals, opening into a handsomely furnished, 
marble floored vestibule. The large reading room 
eighty-seven by forty feet, is possibly as handsome, 
well lighted, heated and ventilated as any in the 
country. Near the S. E. extremity of the room, 
is an old fashioned fire place, which adds much 
to the beauty of the room. The four sides of this 
room not taken up by windows and doors are oc- 
cupied by book cases with plate glass doors, in 
which are kept the literary rarities and curiosities 
of the library, as well as art folios and quartos 
and other books in showy and costly binding. The 
main library contains about 130,000 volumes. 

Among the art treasures in this library, perhai:)s 
the most curious and interesting, is a sculptured 
slab of marble eight by ten feet in size and four 
inches thick, cut by saw from the interior wall of 
one of the excavated palaces in Nimrod, a sup- 
posed suburb of the ancient Ninevah. It is sup- 
posed to be nearly four thousand years old. It 
was presented to the Association by Rev. Dwight 
W. Marsh, missionary at Mosul, near Ninevah in 



46 SAIXT LOUIS 

1851-60. Upon its face in alto relievo, is a sculp- 
tured image of Assur-nazir-pal, King of Assyria. 

Among the statues are Beatrice Cenci and 
Oemone, of Harriet Hosmer, and a perfect cast in 
bronze of the immortal Venus de Medici. Of the 
paintings may be mentioned the four most cele- 
brated works of the departed artist, George C. 
Bingham, "The Jolly Flatboatmen", and the series 
of election pictures — "Stump Speaking'', "The 
Election" and "Announcing the Vote". 

Among the life-sized portraits is that of Henry 
D. Bacon (St. Louisan) by Charles Elliott, the 
prince of American portrait painters. 

The FREE PUBLIC LIBRARY occupies the 
entire building at the S. E. corner of Ninth and St. 
Charles Streets. This Library was incorporated 
in 1865 as a Public School Library Society of 
St. Louis, 'through the efforts of Ira Divoll, 
Superintendent of Public Schools in Saint Louis 
from 1857 to 1868, and the first to organize a sys- 
tem of public schools in this city. A full length 
oil painting of this worthy man hangs in the vesti- 
bule of this library. The library contains about 
225,000 books, and will soon remove to its new 
home — The Central Library — to be erected at . a 
cost of $1,650,000, covering the entire block 
between 13th and 14th Streets and fronting on 
Olive, a sunken garden being one of the attractive 
features. It is to be of grey granite — Cass Gilbert, 
of New York, architect. The style of architecture 
is to be of the early period of the Italian Renais- 
sance, a type of architecture which is peculiarly 
simple in its form, and relies upon its proportions 
and upon the refinement of its detail for its beauty. 
The building will consist of a basement, main 
story and an upper story. The design of the main 
story is that of a great simple arcade which is 
carried consistently around the three principal 
fronts of the building. Inscription tablets are 
located in the lower third of these arches whereon 



SAIXT LOriS 47 

the names of those most eminent in literature can 
be placed. The main entrance will be in the center 
of the Olive Street front, and consists of three 
large arches with bronze gates. This entrance is 
reached by a very broad flight of granite steps 
and will be adorned by sculpture. Inside of this 
main entrance will be a vaulted hallway leading to 
the delivery room, while at the right and left of 
this hallway are placed the periodical room and 
the art history room. The delivery room will be 
the great feature of the interior of the building. It 
is to be about fifty feet wide, about one hundred 
and nineteen feet long, and thirty-six feet high. 

In connection with this Central Library, there 
are to be six branch libraries, located in various 
parts of the city, accessible and convenient for 
residents in these districts. These libraries will 
be open to the public, and each has a large 
auditorium where lectures may be held and various 
entertainments for the entertainment and instruc- 
tion of the neighborhood. Classes taking historical 
or literary courses, and clubs may hold their meet- 
ings in these auditoriums also. Four of these 
branch libraries have already been built, the Barr 
Branch, on Jefferson and Lafayette Streets, named 
in honor of the late William Barr, senior member of 
the Barr Dry Goods Company, who contributed the 
lot on which it is erected ; the Frederick M. Crun- 
den Branch, at Fourteenth Street and Cass Avenue, 
so named in honor of INIr. F. M. Crunden, for many 
years Librarian in the Public ' Library ; the Cabanne 
Branch, on Union and Cabanne Avenues, a beauti- 
ful stone building ; and the Carondelet Branch, on 
Michigan and Kraus Avenues. In this building is 
a very beautiful painting by Dawson Watson, in ad- 
dition the Carondelet Woman's Club has raised a 
fund of $i,ooo, to expend on the interior decoration 
of this library. This work to be done by a Saint 
Louis artist. 

In the Cabanne b.ranch arc three ])aintings 



48 SAINT LOUIS 

loaned by the Society for the Promotion 
of Art in Saint Louis, "The Wanderer" by F. G. 
Carpenter — a scene by E. H. Wuerpel and ''Lone- 
liness" by S. Erganian. Mr. and Mrs. F. M. Crnnden 
have given three paintings to this library, a harvest 
scene by F. F. DeCrano and two others. Mrs. R. 
G. Baker also gave a large oil painting. 

In the Barr Branch are about fortv photographs 
and etchings loaned by Miss Sarah Tower; an oil 
painting "Pensive" by Carl Gustave Waldeck, and 
"Last Snow of Winter" by Tom P. Barnett, both 
loaned by the Society for the Promotion of Saint 
Louis Art; a landscape on the Mississippi, by 
NicoUs ; sketches by Henry Chase, and two other 
paintings by Howe and Raphael. Mr. William 
Burg presented the library with nine small water 
colors by A. M. Bouman, and Mrs. George O. Car- 
penter has loaned a Japanese study in color. A 
marble piece, "Franklin and his whistle", a repro- 
duction of the original by Pasquale Romanelli, now 
in the Public Library in Newark, New Jersey, was 
presented to the Library by Mrs. Harold H. Titt- 
mann and Mrs. Nathaniel Day. 

Work is in progress on the other two branch 
libraries, the Soulard Branch, to be built at Sev- 
enth and Soulard Streets, and another, the Divoll 
Branch, named in honor of the 'founder of the li- 
brary system, to be built on the site of the old Clay 
school building, at Eleventh and Farrar Streets, 
Mariner & Labeaume, architects. The Soulard 
Branch will be named in honor of Antoine and 
Julie C. Soulard, whose farm in early days covered 
a large portion of this section of the cit} . It is to 
be in modern Renaissance, of brick and stone, with 
granite basement, and will be of the "one room 
type", so called because the main floor consists of 
one large reading room surrounded by book stacks. 

The new park planned for this section of the 
city will be opposite the library. 

The funds for building these branch libraries 



SALXT LOUIS 49 

was the gift of Andrew Carnegie, who also contri- 
buted $5,000, toward the Central building. The 
total expenditure for library buildings, on which 
work is in progress, will be about $2,000,000. 

EADS BRIDGE. 

Extending from the foot of \\'ashington Avenue 
to East Saint Louis, was completed in 1874, hav- 
ing taken ten years for its construction, at a cost of 
$10,000,000. The entire length is six thousand 
two hundred and twenty feet, including the tunnel 
under the city, it is eleven thousand feet in length. 
Its width is fift3^-four feet, and it stands fifty-five 
feet above the high water mark. The center span 
is five hundred and twenty feet, and the two end 
ones five hundred and two feet. The total weight 
of one naked rib of the center span is four hundred 
and eighty-eight thousand two hundred and two 
pounds, the total amount of steel in the three 
arches is four million seven hundred and eighty 
thousand pounds and six million three hundred 
and thirty thousand pounds of wrought iron. The 
west pier stands on rock ninety-one feet below 
high water, the east pier one hundred and twenty- 
seven feet below high water, and the east abutment 
one hundred and thirty-five feet below the surface 
of extreme high water. The calculation made for 
the strength of this bridge being, the greatest num- 
ber of people who could stand on the roadway 
above, and each railway track below covered from 
end to end with locomotives, this enormous load 
would tax it less than one sixth of the ultimate 
strength of the steel of which the arches are con- 
structed. The computed ultimate strength the 
three arches will sustain, being twenty-eight thou- 
sand nine hundred and seventy-two tons. 

The railroad passages run beneath the carriage 
ways, and are each about fifteen feet in the clear, 
and eighteen feet high. 

The bridge is always illuminated at night, and 



50 



SAINT LOUIS 




SAIXT LOUIS 51 

is an imposing sight. James B. Eads, for whom 
it was named, was one of the finest engineers in 
Am-erica, and the designing and erection of this 
bridge is considered a master effort in that field. 
Another bridge, "The Merchants Bridge" 
crosses the Mississippi above Ead's bridge, and a 
new bridge, "The McKinley", is now being con- 
structed between the two. 

MERCHANTS EXCHANGE. 

This building, costing $2,000,000, is one of the 
handsomest in the world for this purpose, fronting 
two hundred and thirty-three feet on Third Street, 
and one hundred and eighty-seven on Pine and 
Chestnut Streets. Built in modern Italian style, 
of Warrensburg, Missouri, limestone, with Doric 
portico, emblematic figures sculptured in relief, the 
grand doorways and grand stairway of American 
walnut, with decorations of several varieties of 
hard woods, gives the interior an appearance of 
magnificence and architectural beauty. 

Occupying the full length of the building above 
the first floor, is Exchange Hall, one hundred feet 
wide, two hundred and twenty-six feet in length 
and seventy-nine feet high. The ceiling is frescoed 
and adorned with panels, within which are grace- 
ful figures, symbolical of the nations of the world 
one famous painting alone, being fifty by one hun 
dred and seventy-nine feet in area. A gallery, sup- 
ported by rich brackets encircles the great hall, to 
which visitors are admitted. 

The Veiled Prophet Ball, following the Veiled 
Prophet Parade, the great fall pageant of Saint 
Louis, is held annually in this building and it is 
here that visitors of eminence to Saint Louis are 
entertained. 

The Exchange was organized in 1836, lacing the 
oldest body of its kind in America. First as the 
Chamber of Commerce, and in 186.2 reorganized as 
the Merchants' Exchange. 



SAINT LOUIS 




SAlXr LOCIS 53 



CITY HALL. 

Competitive designs were submitted for this 
building in 1892 by many architects, and award 
made by city officials to George R. Mann, of St. 
Joseph, Missouri, against the council of professional 
advisors. It is located on Washington Square, the 
Cit}^ Hall park, enclosed by Twelfth, Thirteenth, 
Market Streets and Clark Avenue, made attractive 
by landscape gardening, and bringing in relief this 
great building. It took a number of years to com- 
plete the building which cost $2,000,000. The 
exterior resembles in mass, French Hotels de Ville, 
with pinnacles, dormers etc., executed with very 
mixed details. The silhouette, however, is quite im- 
posing. The interior has been finished within the 
past five years, by A. B. Groves. The walls of the 
Mayor's suite, and other important rooms, are 
decorated by a Saint Louis painter, F. L. Stoddard, 
who has executed in the Mayor's suite mural 
decorations significant of the early history of Saint 
Louis. In the great central court of the building 
he has painted a series of spandrels, portraying 
Indian subjects. 

AA^ork is in progress on the site of a a^roup of 
municipal buildings, to be erected across the street 
from the City Hall, which property will possibly 
mean the expenditure of about $2,000,000. The 
first ground was broken for this building on August 
2ist, by Mayor Kreismann, followed by President 
Maxime Reber of the Board of Public Improve- 
ments, and City Comptroller B. J. Taussig. The 
corner stone to be laid during Centennial week. 

The old City Hall, at Eleventh and :\rarket 
Streets, and the Four Courts building, at Twelfth 
Street and Clark Avenue, each historic, will be sold 
and the monev used in these buildings. 

The old Citv Hall was built in 1871, and the 
Four Courts, a ^ift to the citv bv Saint Louis 



54 SAIXT LOUIS 

County, was erected in 1873. ^^^ this building was 
held the famous Maxwell trial for the killing of Ar- 
thur Preller, which attracted international atten- 
tion. 



COLISEUM. 

The corner stone of the new Coliseum, at 
Washington and Jefferson Avenues, was laid Au- 
gust 22nd, 1908, by Mr. August Schlafly, president 
of the Saint Louis Coliseum Company. 

This building, costing $300,000, has a seating 
capacity of fourteen thousand, and can readily care 
for twenty thousand if necessary. It is two hun- 
dred and eight by two hundred and ninety-one feet, 
and three stories in height, with fifty thousand 
square feet of floor space in the arena, and an addi- 
tional ten thousand square feet in the basement. 
It is built of mottled granite brick, with terra cotta 
and stone trimmings — Renaissance in design. The 
interior galleries and balconies are constructed of 
reinforced concrete, possibly the first interior work 
of the kind in the country, making the building 
entirely fireproof, except the roof, which is lined 
with wood for the acoustic properties. The interior 
decoration consists principally of decorative lights, 
to which especial attention was given. The main 
entrance is on Washington Avenue, and two others 
on Jefferson Avenue. 

The approaches and steps are of granite, the 
main entrance being treated in terra cotta, the 
ornamentations in rather elaborate design, opening 
into a lobby walled with Italian marble, and deco- 
rated with ornamental plaster — the floor also of 
imported marbles. From this lobby, on either side, 
broad stairways lead to the upper balconies. 
These balconies are equipped with folding opera 
chairs of five ply mahogany with steel frames set 
in concrete. All the exposed surfaces of the interior 



SAINT LOUIS 55 

are of face brick, mortar joints pointed. The arena 
has a sectional removable floor of hard maple. 

The Coliseum is centrally located, and is 
designed for such gatherings as horse shows, trade 
exhibits, agricultural expositions, indoor circuses, 
balls, carnivals and musical and dramatic entertain- 
ments upon the larger scales. 

The site is historic, covering the famous Uhrig's 
caves. These caves, thirty-five feet below the sur- 
face, in solid rock, were used by Mr. Uhrig for 
the storage of beer, hence the name. Afterwards, 
on this spot, the first summer garden of modern 
type was established in Saint Louis, in the sixties, 
by Chris Nunce, a German, and the name Uhrig's 
Cave was still retained. The place was conducted 
upon popular lines, and soon became a popular 
resort. A stage was erected and concerts given 
twice a week. In 1876 "Pat Short", the veteran 
manager of the Olympic. Theatre, took charge of 
Uhrig's Cave, and was the first to introduce high 
class concerts and opera to an open air audience 
in Saint Louis. Possibly few know that Saint 
Louis is the original home of the summer gardens 
in America. The first open air resort, opened by 
private enterprise, was the Vauxhall gardens, on 
the west side of Fourth Street, between Plum and 
Poplar Streets, and surrounded one of the oldest 
brick residences in the city, owned by Thomas C. 
Riddick. As early as 1823 this was a great place 
of public resort, being used on the 4th of July, and 
other similar occasions. 

It is thought these natural caves under the 
Coliseum, 'may be utilized as a Rathskellar, if 
proper ventilation can be provided for. 

A summer garden was opened this season in 
the Coliseum — thus reviving the first use of this 
spot for that purpose. 



SAIXr LOCIS 



REPRESENTATIVE BUSINESS HOUSES. 

The new building of Scruggs-Vandervoort- 
Barney, fronting on three streets, Tenth, Locust 
and Olive, is a splendid ornament to the city. It is 
sixteen stories in height, built in the style of the 
French Renaissance, of stone, steel and cement, 
with massive doorways wrought in antique copper 
of Pompeian green, and marble stairways. The 
upper floors are covered in Gobelin blue carpeting 
of the finest Wilton, embellished with the Saint 
Louis cross. The choicest of woods from many 
countries have been used in the elegant fixtures, and 
drinking fountains molded of the Rookwood pot- 
tery make the interior one of unusual elegance. 

The first floor is devoted entirely to small 
wares — the second floor is used for dress materials 
— the third is beautiful in its display of costumes, 
the ready to wear garments — ranging in price from 
within the purse of all to $500.00, the imported 
French waists reaching. $150.00 and $175.00, and 
evening wraps $600.00 and $700.00. 

The fourth and fifth floors are devoted to furni- 
ture, rugs and other house furnishings, but it is 
possibly on the sixth floor that one finds most de- 
light. 

This floor is dedicated to Art. Here the vis- 
itor sees rooms furnished in the style of different 
periods, and passes through galleries filled with 
statues and pictures; rare carvings and golden fur- 
niture of the French Court ; pottery of many hues 
and moulds, including Amphora, Rookwood, Hol- 
land inlaid ware, Teco, hand painted Vienna ware, 
Wed8:ew^ood and Copenhap"en ware, in prices rang- 
ing from three dollars to four hundred dollars. In 
the Elizabethian room on this floor, the entire pan- 
eled walls are imported, with hand carved door fac- 
ings. 

The pilasters and mantle are copied from old 
carvin^rs in the South Kensington Aluseum, which 



SAIXT LOUIS 



57 




58 



SAINT LOUIS 



in turn were taken from a castle where Queen 
Elizabeth formerly lived. The furniture is also 
copied from South Kensington models — the En- 
glish windows in antique Crusador glass. The 
Scheraton dining room contains a sideboard from 
England, one hundred and 'fifty years old in solid 
mahogany. The walls of this room are in cream 
silk brocade hung with pictures by Dendysadler. 
The Wood work in ivory. 

An Italian Renaissance drawing room is fin- 
ished in French walnut and dull gold — the walls of 
old blue brocade velvet. Here is seen an old Louis 
XV cabinet in solid violet and rose wood, inlaid. 

Another drawing room, of Louis XVI period, 
has the wood work and hangings in old ivory — the 
panels of the walls in tapestry, with furniture in 
antique gold, covered in Rose du Bourry. Adjoin- 
ing this drawing room is a Marie Antoinette bed 
room, in delicate pompadour of pastel colors in 
ivory and pink. These rooms, together with an 
English colonial living room, in mahogany, are 
types of true elegance. 

Among the pieces of especial interest found 
here, is a marble bust, by AA'iegel, who is a mem- 
ber of the French Salon, Paris, and has taken a 




SAIXT LOUIS 50 

grand prize. This piece is thirty inches in height, 
of the period of Louis XVI, and valued at $1,200.00. 

Another piece by Wiegel, "The Dancer", thirty 
inches in height, is valued at $750.00. 

Other pieces of interest are, a copy of an in- 
cense burner from the Temple of Isis, the original 
in the Museum of Naples ; a marble group of statu- 
ary, small figures, valued at $850.00; a memorial 
fountain in antique marble $750.00; a Louis XVI 
commode in violet and rose v^ood, with castings of 
gold bronze — $600.00, and wicker window boxes in 
Vienna type. 

Samples of Art glass windows, pictorial and 
classic subjects can also be seen here, and a number 
of memorial windows for Saint Louis churches 
have been furnished by this establishment. These 
windows are truly works of art, conceived by ar- 
tists of merit, and designed by the best artisans 
obtainable. Inquiry on this floor will put one in 
touch with a corps of artists of merit whose spe- 
cialtv is to design the decorations and assemble 
the furnishings for homes, oflices and buildings. 

To lovers of the beautiful, hours might be 
spent delightfully in. this great store. On the sev- 
enth floor are the reception, waiting rooms and a 
tea room, furnished in colonial style. 

This Company was founded in April 1850 by 
Richard M. Scruggs, and since that time has been 
the leading 
house of its 
kind in Saint 
Louis. iMr. Han- 
ford Crawford 
is now Presi- 
dent, which po- 
sition he has 
occupied since 
the death of 
Mr. Scruggs ni 
190 ^ Mr. Ro- 
bert Johnston 
is vice-presi- 
dent. 




60 SAIXT LOUIS 



J. KENNJRT> & SONS CJIRPET CO. 

One of the most attractive places to which 
Saint Louis hostesses take their visitors, is the fifth 
floor of the J. Kennard & Sons Carpet Company, 
on Fourth street, from \A'ashington to St. Charles 
streets. 

Thi.s famous carpet house was established in 
1857, by the elder John Kennard, who came to 
Saint Louis from Kentucky in that year, associat- 
ing with himself his sons, under the firm name 
of J. Kennard & Sons Carpet Company, and by 
which name the house has been known to the 
present time. It is said to be the largest carpet 
house in the United States, great not only by 
reason of the volume of its business and the vast 
extent of territory covered by its trade, but also in 
the integrity of its transactions, a commercial in- 
stitution of which Saint Louis is justly proud. Mr. 
Samuel ]\L Kennard, a son of the founder of the 
company, is now president. 

J. Kennard & Sons are the largest, and the 
only direct, importers of oriental rugs in Saint 
Louis. They have been selling rugs in this city 
since these rugs have been known in the United 
States, and for the past four or five years, they, 
seeing the great demand for them, have been send- 
ing their own buyers to Constantinople and buying 
direct. 

Li the Sixteenth Century rug weaving came 
to its height, when the master pieces of Persian 
• w^eaving were done as an artist paints a beautiful 
picture. They were not made to use on the floors, 
but thirty or forty years were spent on one rug, 
and as a work of art was treated as such, and left 
as a monument, just as a painting or piece of 
statuary. 

To-day these wonderful s]^ecimens of textile 
art are in museums, like the famous collec- 



Sri f XT LOUIS 



Gl 









Kennard Store and Show Rooms 

tion in the Imperial Royal Austrian Commercial 
Museum, the South Kensington IMuseum in Lon- 
don, and several other Museums in France and 
Germany, and in the remarkable collections of 
Earon de Rothschilds of France ; Prince Johannes 
Liechtenstein ; the late Mr. Marquand of New- 
York ; Mr. Pierpont Morgan and Senator Clark, 
also of New York, as well as many others. 

These rugs being valued at from fifty to one 
hundred thousand dollars each. 

Gradually this art, the wonderful designs, the 
vegetable colors used in dying their wool and re- 
markable durability began to be known in civilized 
•countries, and the result was that the industry so 
well known in old times started anew in the pres- 
-ent century, especially in the past thirty or forty 



62 



SAIXT LOUIS 



years, hundreds of thousands of Persians started 
to work, and are now devoting their entire time 
to weaving these rugs for a HveHhood, following 
the old inexplainable designs as well as colorings. 
They are producing today several varieties which 
in seventy-five or one hundred years tire almost 
certain to be as remarkable as the ones made one 
hundred years ago — the design becoming extinct. 
Our best homes today in the United States and 
the large European cities, have their floors covered 
with oriental rugs, their soft tones and coloring 
being in harmony with the present modes of de- 
corating. The very best makes that are now com- 
ing from Persia, are the Kirmanshah, from the 
district of Kirmanshah, on account of its soft tones, 
pleasing and interesting floral designs, good vege- 
table dves and close weave. 



-^ 




Japanese Weaving. 



SAINT LOUIS 63 

There are also the Tabriz (Tabreez) rugs, more 
on the geometrical design, and follows a great deal 
in the old Feraghan patterns, which is a very close 
weave but rather strong colors, the predominating 
colors generally strong red. The Goravan rugs 
in their best weaves, known as Serappi, although 
not as fine in weaving as the Kirmanshah and 
Tabriz, are thicker and have remarkable durability. 

Again we have the rugs made in the district of 
Khorassan and Meshed, very near the Kirmanshah 
designs. x\ll these, which are considered the higher 
grades of rugs now made, and many other varieties, 
not as fine, but in almost all colors, are carried by 
this reliable house. 

In the Curtain Department will be found the 
newest materials for draperies and wall coverings 
for parlors, dens, libraries, dining rooms and halls, 
including many choice reproductions of French and 
English periods. 

" Interior decorative work of walls and ceilings 
in oil or distemper is also a feature of this depart- 
ment. 

On visiting the fifth floor one finds themselves 
in a wildernes's of all that is beautiful in decora- 
tions — Tiffany leaded glass lamps, decorative and 
reading, from' $30.00 to"$50o.oo ; dining room domes 
from $130.00 to $400.00; a display of electric fix- 
tures—the finest in the West, suitable for all places, 
the most notable of the present styles being the 
hammered effects in old brass, and the silver fix- 
tures after the style of old English Sheffield plate. 

On this floor is also found exquisite fur- 
niture, comprising correct copies in all periods 
— the most notable in dining room sets being an 
Elizabethan in old Flemish oak, and a Colonial and 
Jacobin in mahogany. English hall furniture, set- 
tees, arm and side chairs in Elizabethan, and 
William and Mary periods; living room and library 
reading and easy chairs in English morocco and 
tapestry of the most exclusive and unusual models ; 



64 



SAIXT LOUIS 



a beautiful line of artistic mirrors and wonderful 
collection of English prints, etchings, water colors 
and oil paintings ; a large and varied assortment of 
the finest china from the best makers in the world 
— English, French and Russian ; table glass from 
Baccarat of France, Count Flarrach of Bohemia 
and Dorflinger of New York; a very exclusive line 
of old Dutch silver, also copies of old English 
silver and Sheffield plate: bronzes from the best 
makers in Paris, and a great many of the exclusive 
novelties that are seen in the shops in the Rue de 
la Paix and Avenue du Opera in Paris, and Pic- 
cadilly and Bond street, London, make up this won 
derful and interesting collection. 




SAINT LOUIS f.5 

MERMOD, JACCARD & KING. 

No introduction is necessary to the company 
Mermod, Jaccard & King — popularly known as 
"Jaccard's", one of the largest and most magnificent 
jewelry establishments in the world, located on 
Broadway and Locust street. 

This company was founded in 1829, by Louis 
Jaccard, a watchmaker, who came to Saint Louis 
from Switzerland in that year, and opened a small 
shop on the west side of Main street, between Pine 
and Chestnut. 

This shop contained one window and one door. 
Such was the beginning of a business whose his- 
tory has been closely identified wnth the develop- 
ment of Saint Louis. 

Eight years after Louis Jaccard launcned in 
business, he was joined by his nephew, Eugene 
Jaccard. 

In 1845, ^- S. Mermod, a cousin of Eugene 
Jaccard, entered the business, and two years later 
D. C. Jaccard, also a relative, became associated 
with the firm. 

In the great fire of 1849 ^^^^ building was de- 
stroyed, but with renewed energy the founders of 
the business re-established it on the east side of 
Fourth street, between Pine and Chestnut streets. 

In May, 1864, Mr. Mermod and D. C. Jaccard 
withdrew, and with C. F. Mathey formed the firm 
of D. C. Jaccard & Company. The next year Mr. 
Goodman King, now president of the company, be- 
came associated with them, and a new location on 
the northwest corner of Fourth and Locust streets 
was chosen. 

In 1883 the Mermod & Jaccard Jewelry Com- 
pany was incorporated, with A. S. Mermod as pres- 
ident ; D. C. Jaccard, vice-president; C. F. Mathey. 
treasurer, and Goodman King, secretary, and in 
1887 the present location, at Broadway and Lo- 
cust street, was obtained. That building was de 



66 



SAINT LOUIS 



r] " !iy| 


ilMi 






p-^;-:w.M 


fill 


fl'lym 




||wlfl^^ 




fllfl 


jjMpJ 


P 






9h| 


F 












H... JH 



SAINT LOUIS 67 

stroyed by fire, Sunday morning, December i8, 
1897, and on the morning of Monday, December 20, 
the firm was open for business in temporary quar- 
ters across the street, remaining there until the new 
building was completed. 

This building is nine stories in height and ab- 
solutely fireproof throughout. The lower floors are 
used for salesrooms, and the two upper ones for 
manufacturing and as repair shops. In this de- 
partment especially the establishment is said to ex- 
cel. Here expert workmen execute exclusive de- 
signs in accordance with the wishes of the store's 
patrons. Recently this house designed and made 
the punch set presented by the citizens of Saint 
Louis to the cruiser ''Saint Louis". 

This design is said to be one of the most beau- 
tiful ever seen in the city. 

There are few designs in jewelry or works of 
decorative art but can be furnished by this house. 
In its building is assembled the largest and finest 
collection of diamonds, watches, jewelry, silver- 
ware, marble and bronze statuary, bric-a-brac, etc., 
to be seen in America. 

The diamonds are purchased direct from the 
cutters in Amsterdam, Paris and London — the col- 
lection also showing the latest European and 
American designs, as well as striking designs con- 
ceived by the Mermod, Jaccard factory. 

The collection of beautiful pottery includes 
specimens from every famous pottery in the world, 
the German pottery coming direct from the Em- 
peror's kilns. 

The display of curiously wrought electroliers, 
rare and costly bronzes, masterpieces of the fore- 
most Italian sculptors and artists of the studios of 
Paris, Vienna, Berlin and other prominent cities ; 
the delicate gold-inlaid glass ware, products of the 
best manufacturers in France, Germany, Belgium 
and Austria; the cut glass, the finest achievements 
of Hawkes, Libbey, Eggington and Doerflinger, 



68 



SAINT LOUIS 




S.IIXT LOUIS 



69 



containing' exquisite Diadem, Queen and A\'ild Ce- 
dar designs, some of which have been prominently 
displayed in the leading expositions of the world, 
are the admiration of all who visit this building. 

At different times other companies have been 
consolidated with this house, and in 1905 the present 
name ''Mermod, Jaccard & King Jewelry Company' 
was taken, with Mr. King as president. 

The Senior members of the firm having one 
by one passed away, it is now to ]\Ir. King and his 
associates, Mr. C. F. Mathey, vice-president and 
treasurer and head of the diamond department; M:. 
R. O. Bolt, secretary and manager of the manufac- 
turing department; Mr. E. H. Mead, director and 
buyer, and Mr. A. C. Stewart, a director, that this 
great establishment owes its continued success. 

Visitors to Saint Louis regard "J^ccard's" as 
one of the show places of the city, and feel that 
their visit is not complete until they have seen this 
world-known jewelry house. 




Electrolier, $145.00. 



70 SAINT LOUIS 

UNIVERSITIES JND SCHOOLS. 
ST. LOUIS UNIVERSITY. 

The beginning of Saint Louis University, dat- 
ing back to 1818, when a Latin Academy was 
opened at Third and Wahiut Streets, makes it not 
only the oldest University in the city, but the oldest 
in the Louisiana Purchase. Two years later the 
name was changed to Saint Louis College. In 1824 
the Jesuit Mission and Indian School, at Florissant, 
was moved to the College, and in 1829 the College 
was reconstructed and located on the west side of 
Ninth Street, between AVashington and Lucas 
Avenues. About 1887 it was again moved, and with 
St. Francis Xavier's Church, was located on Grand 
Avenue, fronting on this Avenue for two hundred 
and seventy feet, and extending from West Pine to 
Lindell Boulevard. 

This University, with its parochial residence, 
house of studies for its scholastics, and the beauti- 
ful church of St. Francis Xavier (the College 
CJiurch), form a group of buildings rarely equaled 
in any city of any country. This group is extensive 
and imposing, the walls and all ornamental trim- 
mings are of a red color in English gothic. St. 
Francis Xavier church is of Saint Louis limestone, 
trimmed with blue Bedford stone. It is two hun- 
dred and ten feet in length, with one hundred and 
twenty feet width in the transept, and contains 
grandeur of proportion, with exquisite beauty of 
ornamental finish, making it one of the finest 
examples of gothic architecture in America. The 
great central altar in this church, is the gift of the 
Maffitt family, at a cost of $30,000. 

This University possesses a select and valuable 
library ; a museum of natural history ; a collection 
of scientific instruments ; a laboratory, etc., in- 
cluding many curious and costly objects. Among 
the treasures, are nearly one hundred large folios, 
donated by the British Government in 1834 — the 



S/UNT LOUIS 




73 SAINT LOUIS 

famous Doomsday Book — and various state papers. 
The University has an exceedingly interesting col- 
lection of paintings, possibly the oldest and most 
valuable in the city, some of them being more than 
two hundred years old, and painted by masters of 
the old world. Among them, "The Cobbler'' by 
Teniers the Younger. This and another belong to 
a set of twelve paintings, representing the 
"Trades". Nos. i to 9 are in Munich; "St. Sebas- 
tian", an original from the School of Andrea del 
Sarto. 

"A Soldier piercing the Side of Christ", 
marked on the back as a sketch by Rubens, the 
writing in Dutch and over two hundred years old. 
A large painting on wood representing scenes of 
the Crucifixion, is a Dutch painting, but Florentine 
costumes, painted by Erassimus Winckler, A. D, 
1680, School of Memlinc, Bruges. The name of 
the artist is on the tunic of the executioner, the 
Coat of Arms of the painter's patron is hanging on 
a tree. 

''The Annunciation", painted by Camillo 
Procaccini, Verona, 1619, belonged formerly to the 
Massellini collection, which was sold in 181 5. This 
picture was at one time the property of one of the 
Popes. The "Holy Family", a canvas of wood, is 
possibly the most precious painting in the Univer- 
sity. 

A painting of Mr. John Doyle, founder of 
the Doyle scholarship at the Saint Louis Univer- 
sity, is the work of Charles Chambers, an Alum- 
nus of the University in 1903. A painting of 
Bishop Flaget, has interest, as painted by Sister 
Isabella Clark (1800-75), who entered the Loretto 
Sisterhood in 1815, and was presented by her to 
the school in 1873. 

Another painting by a Saint Louis University 
alumnus, is *'St. Peter", by Simpson, presented to 
the University by the estate of Mrs. A. J. Smith, 
wife of General Smith, in 1899. The ''Flaying of 
St. Bartholomew" by Spagnoletto, and "Suppli- 
cation", a fragment of a large canvas by Paul 
Poincv, are of interest. 



SAINT LOUIS 72 



WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY. 

W'ashiiifjton University, standing on an impos- 
ing elevation west of Forest Park, consisting of 
twelve buildings, constructed of the best red Mis- 
souri granite, in Collegiate Tudor Gothic style, 
(Cope & Stewardson, architects) covers one hun- 
dred and thirteen acres. Baedeker has well said 
''certainly the most successful and appropriate 
group of Collegiate buildings in the New World". 
The main building of this group was used dur- 
ing the Louisiana Purchase Exposition for the Ad- 
ministration offices, and called the Administration 
Building, now University Hall, and was the gift of 
Mr. Robert S. Brookings. Busch Hall, the chemi- 
cal laboratory, was the gift of Mr. Adolphus Busch. 
Two Halls and aii engineering laboratory are the 
gifts of Mr. Samuel Cupples. Eads Hall, a labora- 
tory of Physics, was the gift of Mrs. Eliza A. How,, 
as a memorial to her father Captain James B. Eads, 
the distinguished engineer. Liggett Hall was the 
gift of Mrs. Elizabeth J. Liggett, in memory of her 
husband. A part of the Library, the Gymnasium 
and a Dormitory were erected from rentals paid by 
the Louisiana Purchase Exposition Company, and 
McMillan Hall, a dormitory for women, was the 
gift of Mrs. Eliza McMillan, at a cost of $300000. 
$60,000 was donated to the Library building by 
the estate of Stephen Ridgly. The total expendi- 
ture for this imposing group being $1,670,000. 

Through the efforts of Wayman Crow, a char- 
ter was granted this Institution on February 22nd. 
1853, as Elliot Seminary. 

At the first meeting of the Board of Directors, 



74 



SAINT LOUIS 




Towers of University Hall 



SAINT LOUIS '^'> 

the name was changed to Washington Institute, 
and later to Washington University— the charter 
being given on the 22nd of February and the first 
meeting of the Directors happening on the 22nd, 
a year later, this coincidence decided the name of 
the Institution. The first work under the charter 
was an evening school, opened in the old Benton 
school on Sixth Street. This school was named 
O'Fallon Polvtechnic Institute, in honor of Colonel 
John O'Fallon. The first building erected by the 
University was on Seventeenth Street near Wash- 
ington x\venue, the formal inauguration taking 
place in the Mercantile Library, on the 23rd of 

April, 1857. . . . T^ • •. ^ 

The Art department of this University, tor 
thirtv-five vears located on the corner of Nine- 
teenth and 'Locust streets, and now occupying the 
British Pavilion in Forest Park, ranks among the 
best Art schools in the United States. The former 
Director, Mr. Halsey C. Ives, was chosen as the 
Chief of the Art Department of the World's Fair 
at Chicago, in 1893, and of the Louisiana Purchase 
Exposition held in Saint Louis in 1904. 

The old School of Fine Arts building, at Nine- 
teenth and Locust, was the gift of the late W^ayman 
Crow, and the library in this building the gift of 
Mr. Ellis Wainwright, and is in Flemish oak, 
beautifullv carved, strictly French Renaissance. 

The 'designs furnished and executed by the 
students. The ceiling is decorated in panels of 
Renaissance, in rich low-tone colors, each bearing 
in a tablet the names of two of the old Masters. 

It is the intention of the present Director of 
the School of Fine Arts, Mr. Edmund H. Wuerpel, 
to dismantle the facade of this old building, which 
is of the Italian Renaissance style, that the splen- 
did examples of sculpture found in the two low 
relief panels by Howard Kretchmar may be pre- 
served. 

Hie present home of this school was erected 



70 SAINT LOUIS 

for the British exhibit at the Louisiana Purchase 
Exposition. It was designed by George & Yeates, 
English architects, and is an exact replica of the 
one story red brick and white stone orangery at 
Kensington Palace, designed by Sir Christopher 
Wren. The interior pilasters, niches, panelings and 
carved cornices of the original were faithfully re- 
produced here by Mellier & Co., of England. 

After the Exposition this building was pur- 
chased by Robert S. Brookings, and donated to 
Washington University. Eighteen thousand dol- 
lars have been spent in remodeling it for the Art 
school. 

The Law, Dental and Medical Departments 
of Washington University are located near the 
business section of the city, and several prepara- 
tory departments, including the Manual Training 
School ; Mary Institute ; Correspondence School 
and Smith Academy are also apart from the main 
group west of the park. 

In January 1908 a large bronze tablet was 
erected in Smith Academy, by the members of the 
Alumni Association, to the memory of Charles 
Paine Curd, for twenty-seven years connected with 
the school as teacher and principal. 

The inscription on the tablet was written by 
Winston Churchill, the novelist, of the class of '88, 
who was present at the unveiling. The tablet was 
designed by Sylvester P. Annan, the artist, of the 
class of '84. 

Another memorial in this Lhiiversity, is a lib- 
rary of Germanic Literature to the memory of Dr. 
Emil Preetorius, in recognition of his deep interest 
in the library, and his work in behalf of German 
literature, ideals and journalism in this city. 

One Hundred Thousand Dollars is being 
raised as an additional endowment to meet the 
increasing demands necessary for raising the stan 
dard of this institution 



S/l/NT LOUIS 



77 




Concordia Seminary. 



CONCORDIA THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. 

Concordia Theological Seminary, on Jefferson 
Avenue, N. W. corner of Winnebago Street, was 
founded in 1839, ^t Altenburg, Missouri, where it 
was conducted in a log hut, constructed by the 
first faculty of the College. In 1849 i^ was moved 
to Saint Louis, and in 1882 the present $150,000. 
building was erected. It is in modern Gothic style, 
of red pressed brick and sandstone trimmings. 

Among the art pieces in this school is a paint- 
ing "Martin Luther" by F. W. Wehle, the gift of 
the artist ; a bust of Dr. C. F. W. Walther, one of 
the founders, and the first President of the Semi- 
nary, the gift of C. F. G. Meyer (deceased) of 
Saint Louis ; a monument of Martin Luther, bronze, 
nine feet high on granite pedestal. This is a repli- 
ca of the renowned statue at Worms, Germany, by 



78 



SAIXT LOUIS 



Ernst Rictsdrel. The Seminary also has an inter- 
esting and valuable collection of two hundred gold, 
silver and bronze coins, that are unique in x\merica, 
pertaining to the work of Luther, and the jubilee 
celebrations of Luther's Reformation. Also rare 
books in the Library, including an old Latin Bible, 
printed 1477 by Koburger, of Nuremberg. 

FOREST PARK UNIVERSITY, a young la- 
dies' boarding school, located in Forest Park, and 
Visitation Academy, on Cabanne and Belt Avenues, 
both have very beautiful buildings. 




First Ward School in St. Louis. 

PUBLIC SCHOOLS. 

It is generally conceded among architects the 
country over that in Saint Louis are to be found 
the best and most modern school buildings of the 
country, and many will be especially interested 
in seeing them. The purchase of ample sites 
has made it possible to limit the height of the 
buildings to two stories, thus securing greater 
safety. 

The exterior design has been to avoid the 
use of extravagant material and ornamentation, 
and the straining for effect at the sacrifice of utility. 



SAINT LOUIS 



79 



In most instances the buildings are faced with ordi- 
nar}^ hard and red brick, mixed as to color, and laid 
up with a large bed joint in garden wall or Memish 

bond. . 

^tone has 1)ecn used sparingly and n^^Ji^- 
tempt is made to accent any part of the building 
except the main entrance, which show beautitul ar- 
chitectural treatment. The interior is very simple 
very little woodwork is used, and that in oak ot 
plain design. The classrooms and corridors are 
painted in'lead and oil, with a simple stencil frieze 
The kindergartens being decorated with mural 
paintings, typifying the life of childhood (It is 
interesting to know that Saint Louis is the home 
of the first kindergarten in the West, and the 
originator a Saint Louisan, Miss Susan Blow.) 

' The stairways are built with solid concrete 
balustrades ; the 'risers and skirtings are of marble 
and the treads of asphalt one inch thick. ^ Treads of 
this character being non-slipping, noiseless and 
easily replaced when worn out. 

The lar^e grounds have given opportunity m a 
small wav for object lessons in the art of landscape 
gardening, and each school ground has been made 
to present some distinct instructive feature, awak- 
ening an interest in the knowledge of decorative 
plants and their use in the beautifying of the home 
and city The Board maintains a corps of garden- 
ers and spent in 1908 $8,500 for this gardening— 
the work being in charge of an experienced land- 
scape gardener. ., • o • . t 

The first ward school was built m Saint Louis 
in 1843 There are now over one hundred public 
school buildings in the city, among the best types 
being the William Clark, in Early English style 
built in 1906 on Union Avenue, N. E. corner of 
Fairmount Avenue, costing $188,902.; The Edward 
Hempstead, 1906, on Minerva Avenue, S. E. corner 
Hamilton Avenue, costing $180,560.80; The Patrick 
Henry— 1905— on Tenth, between Biddle and 



80 SAINT LOUIS 

0*Fallon Streets, costing $203,312.65; The Cote 
Brilliante — 1904 — on Kennerly Avenue, S. E. cor- 
ner of Cora Avenue, costing $102,829., and the 
Eugene Field School, on Olive Street, near Taylor 
Avenue, named for our poet who was born in Saint 
Louis. 

For the kindergarten in this school, Aliss 
Clara Pfeifer executed the frieze. It is modeled in 
clay and cast in plaster-of-Paris, depicting child 
life in almost natural size. In the main hall is a 
painting by F. O. Sylvester, the subject show^ing 
an end of Fad's Bridge. This was the gift of 
friends and patrons of the school. Another gift 
is a water color, presented by Mrs. George W. 
Taussig. Photographic reproductions of the Holy 
Grail, taken from a frieze in the Boston Public 
Library, also make this hall attractive. 

In the Sherman School, on Flad Avenue, is a 
kindergarten frieze by Sylvester P. Annan. The 
painting is done on canvas, the subjects being il- 
lustrative of the kindergarten songs, as ''Good 
Morning", "Soar" et. al. In the Cote Brilliante 
and Bryan Hill schools, are paintings by Stoddard, 
and in the Washington and Charless is the work 
of Miss Brown. In the Emerson School is a bust 
of Emerson in green bronze. Several schools have 
paintings by Sylvester, among them the Dozier 
School which has twelve, he having given one to 
each room in which his daughter was a pupil while 
attending there. These paintings are principally 
scenes on the Mississippi. Cornelia Maury's and 
Miss Meissner's work has also contributed to the 
beauty of the schools, and in the Wyman, which 
adjoins "Teachers College", is a large and interest- 
ing museum for the public school children. 

This museum is to be moved to the former 
homes of the Tower and Manley families, at Park 
and Grand Avenues, which property has been pur- 
chased by the Board of Education for the erection 
of a building some time later, designed especially 
for the School Museum. During the past term six- 



SAINT LOUIS 81 

leen wagon loads of materials were distributed by 
this IMuscum each week, to one hundred and six 
schools of the City. The Museum has been opera- 
ted four years and has grown from seven hundred 
collections a week to six thousand a week, show- 
ing the value of illustrated lessons. 

Teachers' College for the instruction of Saint 
Louis Public school teachers alone, is located on 
Theresa and Park Avenues. 

The Committee of Instruction have recently 
recommended to the Board of Education, that five 
bronze tablets be placed in three of the above 
schools, and two others, in memory of those for 
whom the school was named. In the William 
Clark, in recognition of Governor Clark, as soldier, 
explorer and citizen ; the Edward Hempstead, 
named for the first Representative in Congress 
from Saint Louis, and who was instrumental in 
securing a land grant in Missouri for the Public 
Schools ; the Patrick Henry, in recognition of the 
civic virtues of Patrick Henry, soldier and States- 
man ; the David G. Earragut, in memory of Ad- 
miral Earragut, and the Rose E. Wright Eanning 
school, in memory of Mrs. Eanning's connection 
with the public schools of Saint Louis from 1844 
to 1903. This is the only school in the city named 
for a woman. 

The Yeatman High School, on Garrison Ave- 
nue, between Palm Avenue and Natural Bridge 
Road, named for James E. Yeatman, a prominent 
banker and philanthropist of Saint Louis, and the 
McKinley High School, on Missouri and Russell 
Avenues to Ann Avenue, named for William Mc- 
Kinley — President of the United States, each has 
mural decorations, twenty-eight feet in length and 
seven feet high, by E. L. Stoddard. In the Yeat- 
man School, the scenes are taken from the life of 
Mr. Yeatman. The central scene shows him on 
the Mississippi bringing in the wounded soldiers, 
commemorative of his services rendered to the 
sick and wounded soldiers of the Union army, as 



83 



SAINT LOUIS 




SAINT LOUIS 83 

President of the Western sanitary commission 
1861-65. 

In the main corridor of the building is a 
tablet, with inscription in bronze and gold, un- 
veiled in 1906, also commemorative of his work in 
this commission. Another panel shows him at his 
desk in the Provident Association, depicting the 
charitable side of his life, and another shows him 
in the street meeting small school children. 

Mr. Yeatman took the first step in securing 
free schools for negroes in Missouri, and to his 
labors the Missouri school for the blind ; the 
Memorial Home ; the Woman's Christian Home 
and many other benevolent institutions are largely 
due. 

The funds for the memorial decorations in the 
McKinley High School were raised by friends of 
the school. In the main corridor is a bronze bust 
of McKinley, also the work of Miss Clara Pfeifer. 
Recently these two High schools have been pre- 
sented with copies of the portrait of Frederich 
Schiller, the German poet and dramatist, taken 
from the original by a famous European artist. 
Both of these schools also have paintings by Stod- 
dard and Wuerpel. 

In the Central High School, on Grand Avenue, 
is a painting by Stoddard, loaned by the Art 
League, and three others by Wuerpel, AVatson and 
Sylvester, the gifts of outgoing classes. 

There is also a large collection of selected sta- 
tuary, the gift of Mr. Rudolph Schmitz. Sixteen 
pieces of this collection were purchased by him 
from the German sculptor — Auguste Goerber — 
during the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. Miss 
Clara Pfeifer also presented a bust of Dewey to 
this school, her own work. Mr. Schmitz in con- 
nection with the Lincoln Centennial exercises in 
January 1909, presented busts of Lincoln and Dar- 
win to each of the three High schools — Central. 
Yeatman and McKinlev. 



8t 



SAINT LOUIS 



In the Soldan High School, recently completed 
on Union Avenue, there is to be a tablet and a 
bronze bust of Mr. Louis Soldan, as memorials to 
Mr. Soldan, former Superintendent of Instruction, 
for whom the school was named. A portrait of 
Mr. Soldan has been presented to the Grant School, 
Pennsylvania Avenue and Crittenden Street, by 
the School Patrons Association. 

The first colored school in Saint Louis was 
conducted by Mary McEnnis, a Sister in the Ca- 
tholic Church, in 1838, the funds being supplied by 
Southern slave holders. 




Music Pavilion, Fcrest Park. 



SAIXT LOUIS 



85 




Shaw's Garden. 



THE "PARKS INCLUDING SHAW'S 
GJRDEN 

The most beautiful place in Saint Louis, is 
Shaw's Garden, (also known as the Missouri Bo- 
tanical Garden) at Flora and Tower Grove Ave- 
nues, including about one hundred acres, enclosed 
bv a stone wall. This was formerly the home of 
Henry Shaw, and by him dedicated to this laudable 
purpose, with provision made for its maintenance. 

Here every variety of flower and shrub is de- 
veloped to its highest perfection. The hot-houses 
and green-houses are all arranged with scientific 
accuracy, filled with the finest specimens of rare 
and curious vegetation. Shaw's Garden is known 
the world over as one of rare beauty. 

It is open to visitors every day in the week, ex- 
cept Sunday, and on two Sundays in the year, the 
first in June and the first in September, it is also 
open to visitors, when an effort is made to have on 
displav all the especially rare and beautiful plants. 



86 SAINT LOUIS 

An average of fifteen or sixteen thousand visit the 
garden on these days, the largest attendance being 
in September 1904, when thirty-three thousand 
six hundred and ninety persons visited this beauti- 
ful spot in one day. 

xA.mong the rare plants most admired are the 
varieties of the lily pond ; the Spanish Yacca ; or- 
chids ; vanilla planttifollea; painted leaved Calla- 
diums ; Cactus and aloes, but the insectivorous 
plants are possibly the most interesting. When a 
fly alights on one of the leaves the leaf closes up 
entrapping the fly and holds it there until it is ab- 
sorbed into the plant, then opens up for the next 
fly. 

The sunken gardens of lantanas now contain 
the largest collection in the country, if not in the 
world, there being eighteen thousand different 
plants. The annual chrysanthemum show is said 
to outrival in beauty and magnificence the world- 
renowned exhibit in the private gardens of the 
Emperor of Japan. 

Continued improvements are being made at 
the garden, recently an addition to the library 
building was made, another entrance is to be added 
and many other improvements are planned. 

With the co-operation of W^ashington Univer- 
sity, the Missouri Botanical Garden authorities are 
prepared to establish a more extensive course in 
applied botany than heretofore, to be known as the 
"Shaw School of Botany". 

Adjoining Shaw's Garden, is TOWNER GROVE 
PARK, also established and provided for by Henry 
Shaw, who ornamented it with marble busts, and 
the heroic bronze statues of "Columbus", "Hum- 
bolt" and "Shakespeare", the latter three by Von 
Mueller of Munich, are to be ranked among the 
art treasures of the city. These statues were placed 
in 1878, the one of Shakespeare stands on a ped- 
estal of polished red granite, and is eighteen feet 
high. There are four bas-relief on the sides, de- 
picting scenes from Shakespeare's plays. 



SAINT LOUIS 87 

In 1899 Olga Xethersole planted an English 
elm in Tower Grove Park, near the statue of 
Shakespeare, and later unveiled a bronze tablet, 
presented by her to the park. This tablet is im- 
bedded in a block of rough hewn granite, and marks 
the site of the elm she had planted. On her visits 
to Saint Louis it is Miss Nethersole"s custom to 
visit this Forest of Avon in the park. 

Saint Louis has two thousand two hundred and 
forty acres in parks, the first ground for this pur- 
pose being set apart from the commons in 181 2, 
following an Act of Congress, June 13, 1812, grant- 
ing the common field lots and commons to the 
town for school purposes. The first private gift 
of the kind was probably in 1816, when three 
citizens. Colonel William Chambers, Major Wil- 
liam Christy and Major Thomas Wright donated 
land in North Saint Louis for a church, school and 
public park. 

FOREST PARK is the largest of the Saint 
Louis parks, and next to the largest in the L^nited 
States, containing one thousand three hundred and 
seventy-four acres. This park was established in 
1874 on the western border of the city. It is tra- 
versed by fine driveways, through grounds made 
beautiful by forest trees, lakes, fiowers, shrubbery 
and landscape gardening. 

Directly in front of the ]\Iuseum of Fine Arts 
in the park, is a colossal Equestrian statue "Saint 
Louis", by Charles E. Niehaus. There is also a 
statue of General Franz Sigel, by Robert Cauer, 
and near the main, and most attractive entrance, 
at Kingshighway and Lindell Boulevards, is a 
statue of General Frank P. Blair, and a bronze and 
stone fountain, the latter by Romanelli. This 
''Fountain Angel'' was presented to the citv bv 
David N. O'Neil. 

The bronze statue of Edward Bates, eighteen 
feet in height, at the southwest entrance of this 
park, is a striking example of the work of the sculp- 
tor James Wilson Alexander MacDonald, known 



88 



SAINT LOUIS 




as America's old- 
est sculptor, and 
who recently died 
in Saint Louis. 

This statue, 
unveiled in 1876 
by Miss Minnie 
H o 1 1 i d a y , was- 
modeled in 1871, 
just after the ar- 
tist had complet- 
ed a colossal bust 
of Washington Ir- 
ving for Prospect 
Park, Brooklyn,. 
N. Y. 

The Zoo con- 
nected with the 
park contains elk, 
buffalo, deer, 
bears of several 
varieties, and 
many smaller ani- 
mals, a delight ta 
children. 

Forest Park will be remembered as the scene 
of the great Louisiana Purchase Exposition in 
1904, it being divided in half for that purpose. 
The Louisiana Purchase Exposition Company 
have been spending the years since the close of 
the fair in restoring it to its former beauty, being^ 
under bond to do so. It is estimated the improve- 
ments put in the park in the restoration could not 
be duplicated for less than one and one-half million 
dollars, and is now ready for acceptance by the 
city. 

/ The four new bridges over the river Des 
Peres have been named for the buildings which 
stood nearest them — ''Liberal Arts", ''Manufac- 
tures", "Education" and "Transportation". They 



Though Forest Park. 



SAIXT LOUIS 



89 




Bridge, Forest Park. 



are of steel with concrete abutments, the only 
wood in them being the flooring. The Exposition 
Company have also erected a magnificent shelter 
house on the site of the Missouri building, over- 
looking nearly one half of the park, the central 
residence section of the city westward from 
Union avenue, Washington University and Uni- 
versity City. 

This building will seat several hundred 
people, and if necessary shelter one thousand — 
the architect is George H. Kessler, landscape archi- 
tect of the Louisiana Exposition. 

On condition that a Two hundred thousand 
dollar statue to Thomas Jefferson be erected on the 
site of the United States Government building, the 
United States government has relinquished all 
claim to any surplus the Louisiana Purchase Ex- 
position Company may have remaining after all 
obligations are met. This statue is to be erected 
surrounded bv sunken gardens. 

LAFAYETTE PARK is the oldest existing 
park in the city, being acquired in 1844, bordering 
on Lafayette, Mississippi, Park and Missouri Ave- 



90 SAIXT LOUIS 

nues, and is the one devastated by the Cyclone of 
May 1896. Despite this, it is again a beautiful 
paric. 

Here is a statue of AVashington, and is a 
replica of the bust of Washington made at Alount 
Vernon, by Jeane Antoine Houdan, in 1785. The 
original is now in the State Capitol of Virginia. 

In the exact center of the park is a statue of 
Thomas H. Benton, the first Senator from Mis- 
souri, flanked by three cannon, trophies of the war 
of 1776. This statue was modeled in i860 by Har- 
riet Hosmer, then the most prominent American 
sculptor, and a replica made in bronze in Munich. 
After a delay of several years, on account of the 
Civil War, the statue was placed in 1865, and un- 
veiled by Mrs. Jessie Benton Fremont, daughter of 
Senator Benton. The statue, costing $36,000, is 
eighteen feet high, mounted on a granite base. 
Benton is represented as wearing the famous cloak 
he generally wore in cool weather, in the attitude 
of saying "There is the East ; there is India", used 
in his memorable speech at the railroad conven- 
tion in Saint Louis in 1849. 

The cannon flanking Benton's statue w^ere part 
of the armament of the British warship "Acteon", 
the largest of a fleet of vessels which entered 
Charleston harbor for the purpose of bombarding 
Fort Moultrie. During the engagement this ship 
was sunk and lay undisturbed at the bottom of 
the sea for a period of one hundred and eleven 
years. In 1887 a British steamer struck on this ob- 
struction, and the United States authorities in- 
vestigated, finding these cannon. 

They were later sold by the government at 
auction, and three of the five guns were, in 1890, 
bought by Captain Hodges of this city, for th i Mis- 
souri Commandry of the Loyal Legion, and in 1897 
by this organization placed in the park. They are 
mounted on carriages modeled after the original 
design. 



SAINT LOUIS 



01 



CO.MPTON HILL PARK was not originally 
designed as a park, but as a part of the Reservoir 
grounds. It contains about forty acres, bounded by 
Grand, Lafayette, Louisiana and Russell Avenues, 
It is one of the most beautiful spots within the 
city limits, made so by natural forest trees and 
landscape gardening. The 
great distributing reser- 
voir, with a capacity of 
sixty million gallons, 
stands on the high ground 
in the center of this plot. 

This w^ater tower 
forms a part of the city's, 
water system, the entire 
plant costing more than 
thirty million dollars, 
with a daily water supply 
of more than one hundred 
million gallons. 

Recently a new co- 
agulant house has been 
completed at the Chain of 
Rocks, composed of eight 
immense cylinders, each 
holding three hundred 
and fifty tons of lime or 
copperas, and a large mix- 
ing tank separating the 
big cylinders, four at 
each end of the building. 

This clarifying pro- 
cess is a Saint Louis idea, 
and when complete, this 
building will be the best 
arranged and most per- 
fect that has ever been 
put together for the pur- 
pose, costing one hun- 
dred thousand dollars. Water Tower. 




93 SAINT LOUIS 

The lime required for this work amounts to about 
fifty tons a day, or fourteen thousand tons a year, 
and about six thousand tons of copperas a year, at 
a total expense of one hundred and twenty-three 
thousand annually. An electric switchboard enables 
one man to manage the entire plant. 

The entire plan is that of AVater Commissioner 
Ben C. Adkins, to whom, in 1904, Saint Louis owes 
her first clarified water, known as the Wixford- 
Adkins process, now famous throughout the 
country, and under whose personal supervision the 
Chain of Rocks water plant was planned and con- 
structed. 

LYON PARK, named in honor of General Na- 
thaniel Lyon, of Civil War fame, is a small park of 
eleven acres, located on Broadway and Arsenal 
Street, being the western portion of the old arsenal 
grounds. The site was granted by Congress in 
1869, on condition that a monument to General 
Lyon -be erected thereon, he being in command of 
the arsenal in 1861. 

The monument is of red granite, twenty-eight 
feet high, resting on a square base. On the shaft 
is a bronze medallion bearing the likeness of 
General Lyon, and another medallion representing 
an allegorical scene, the central figure a lion. One 
of the public schools is also named in honor of 
General Lyon. 

O'FALLON PARK, named in honor of Colo- 
nel John O'Fallon, and overlooking the Mississippi 
river, gives a commanding view of the surrounding 
country. The main entrance is on Florissant Ave- 
nue. 

Near this entrance is a lake covering six 
and one-half acres, afifording pleasant boating. 
Many large forest trees, carefully preserved by 
Colonel O'Fallon, add to the beauty of this park 
which covers one hundred and fifty-eight acres. 

CARONDELET PARK, of one hundred and 
eighty acres, has been left practicalh' in its natural 



SAINT LOUIS 



93 



State. It contains a large lake and deer paddock, 
and many rustic foot bridges, and is located on 
Ninth and Kansas Streets. Finely wooded and 
lending itself topographically to the best effects in 
slope and valley, this park is, in man}^ respects, the 
peer of any Saint Louis public ground. 

There are a number of other parks throughout 
the city, and a new one to be dedicated during the 
Centennial, will be of much interest to Saint Louis, 




Grotto, Carondelet Park. 



as including the site of the old Fair Grounds, on 
North Grand Avenue, containing one hundred and 
forty-three acres. This ground was first secured 
for Fair purposes in 1856, and contained forty 
acres. 

For nearly half a century the annual Saint 
Louis Fair was noted throughout the state, and to 
attend was a great event for those coming from the 
remote sections. 

The Prince of Wales (now King Edward) 
was entertained at the Saint Louis Fair in i860, 



<n SAINT LOUIS 

at the last brilliant gathering on these grovmds un- 
til after the war. During the war the Fair was 
closed, and a part of the grounds used for canton- 
ments, where from five thousand to ten thousand 
soldiers were drilled — the site being called Benton 
Barracks — the pagoda was used for a military 
hospital, and other buildings for stables and store 
houses. The location and surroundings make this 
property valuable for park purposes, and the name 
"Fairground" seems most fitting. 

This park is to be essentially a play ground. 

Public Playgrounds now form an interesting- 
and important feature in connection with the parks. 
This movement w^as started in 1900 by the Wed- 
nesday Club. 

In 1901 the "Vacation Playgrounds Commit- 
tee of Saint Louis and Suburbs" w^as organized, 
and continued to develop, with the assistance of 
other organizations, until it was known as the 
*'Saint Louis Playgrounds Association", which as- 
sociation was dissolved in 1908 by reason of the 
City taking over the playgrounds and the entire 
work of public recreation. Under a Public Recrea- 
tion Commission, composed of five members, the 
Park Commissioner as chairman, and four residents 
of the City, playgrounds and athletic fields, public 
baths and swimming pools are conducted for the 
benefit of the City children. In 1905 the buildings, 
appliances and equipment of "The Alodel Play- 
ground and Nursery" in Forest Park, which was 
on exhibition and in operation during the Louisiana 
Purchase Exposition, were bought by private sub- 
scription and donated to the City. It has been re 
moved to a new location in the park. 



S.UXT LOUIS 95 

THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS. 

.\n attractive building, located in Forest Park, 
was built for the Louisiana Purchase Exposition 
as a permanent building — Cass Gilbert, architect. 

Lovers of art will enjoy viewing the compre- 
hensive collection of the works of American sculp- 
tors, in the form of casts, bronzes and marbles, 
perhaps the best in existence ; the fine collection 
of paintings, among them the work of the Ameri- 
can artists LaFarge William M. Hunt, Benjamin 
West, Edmund C. Tarbell, Troyon, Dewing, Har- 
rison and others. One of Tarbell's — "Preparing for 
the Matinee", deserves especial mention, he being 
considered one of America's best painters. A ^lis- 
souri artist, J. Carroll Beckwith, and several Saint 
Louis artists, F. L. Stoddard, E. H. A\ uerpel, F. G. 
Carpenter et al., are also represented by paintings 
that command admiration. A large painting, "The 
Buffalo Hunt", by Charles F. (Carl) AA'imar, of 
Saint Louis, deceased in 1862, has been loaned by 
the owner. Three others by Wimar belong to the 
Museum collection, "A Buffalo Hunt", "Buffalo 
Crossing the Yellowstone" and "The AA^ounded 
Buffalo". Most of AA'imar's paintings portray some 
feature of Indian life, and he was called the "In- 
dian painter". His best work, the "Captive Char- 
ger", painted Avhile a student at Duesseldorf, is now 
in London. His "Buffalo Hunt" was so admired 
by the Prince of AA'ales while in Saint Louis in 
i860, that he ordered a replica, which was hung in 
W^estminster Palace. 

No artist before or since has used exactly the 
same methods as AA^mar, and he possibly stands 
alone as finishing each portion of his picture as he 
works — i. e., a figure of a group will be complete, 
and the remainder of the picture untouched. 

In the Hall of Arts or Sculpture Hall is the 
exhibit of American sculpture, containing with 
other important statuary the bulk of the American 



1)6 



SAINT LOUIS 




SAL\T LOUIS 97 

sculpture exhibited at the Exposition in 1904. in- 
cluding the "grand prize" examples. Most of these 
pieces have "been presented by the artists. A 
bronze statue, "The Guiding Spirit of Saint Louis'', 
by Charles H. Niehaus, and other pieces were pre- 
sented by the Lousiana Purchase Exposition. Over 
the east and west doors leading from this Hall are 
the Saint Elizabeth Alosaics, replicas of the me- 
morial decorations from the "Elizabeth" Ladies' 
Bower in the Wartburg, Germany, exhibited at the 
Exposition, and presented to the Museum by Adol- 
phus Busch. In an east gallery is a carved chimney 
piece (French Renaissance) and iron (Italmn) 
workmanship, the gift of ^Ir. and Airs. Ezra 
Linley. 

Many other Saint Louisans have presented 
paintings' and other gifts to the Museum, and from 
an endowment fund, given by Mr. W. K. Bixby, 
from twelve to fifteen thousand dollars annually are 
available for the purchase of paintings. Mr. Bixby 
has also made special gifts of paintings, having 
recently added a notable collection of eight Ameri- 
can paintings. One of them, George Fuller's 
''Bringing Home the Cow", is a fine example of 
the work of one of America's greatest technicians 
of the Nineteenth Century. A portrait of Lord 
Byron, by A\^illiam E. West, is possibly the most 
important historically, and another, "Before the 
Gringoes Came", is by a California artist, Charles 
Rollo Peters, wdio has won an international repu- 
tation as a moonlight painter, and was awarded 
a medal by the Jury of Awards of the Louisiana 
Purchase Exposition. Two others, by Leonard 
Ochtman and Thomas A\\ Dewing, won recognition 
at the Exposition. 

Other paintings in the galleries receivin.;::; 
awards of medals, are "Wild Geese", by Bruno 
Liljefors— Chicago World's Fair, 1893; "Mar- 
guerite", by Joaquin Sorolla-y-Bastida, Chicago 
1893, and presented to the Museum by Mr. Charles 



98 SAINT LOUIS 

Nagel ; "The Puritan", by Augustus Saint-Gaudens 
— Louisiana Purchase Exposition, Saint Louis 
1904; "Twilight", by Alexander Harrison — Ameri- 
can Art Association 1885; "Sand Dunes, Southern 
France", by L. G. Belouse — Paris Salon, 1878. 

Of the statuary, "Sin", by Charles Albert Lo- 
pez ; "Hahnemann", by Charles H. Niehaus ; "Para- 
dise Lost", by Hans Schuler; "The Stone Age", 
by John J. Boyle ; "William Ellery Channing", by 
Herbert Adams and "Cowboy at Rest", by Solon H. 
Borglum received medals at the Louisiana Pur- 
chase Exposition, 1904, and "Young Sophocles", 
by John Donoghue, at Chicago in 1893. Of this 
piece of statuary, Charles H. Niehaus has said, 
"Undoubtedly that is the most perfect picture ever 
produced by an American artist". "General War- 
ren", by Paul W^ayland Bartlett, received a Grand 
Prize at Saint Louis in 1904. 

German Art of the Fifteenth Century is repre- 
sented by masterpieces of Peter Vischer and Veit 
.^toss. The great work by Peter Vischer — the 
Shrine of St. Sebald, in the church of St. Se- 
bald, Nuremberg, is represented by a cast from 
the original, and is the only reproduction of this 
great work in America. It stands in the east wing 
of the Museum. 

Italian Art of the Renaissance period, is re- 
presented by works of Donatello, Michael Angelo 
and Ghiberti. The Gates of the Baptistery at 
Florence, the greatest w^ork of Lorenzo Ghiberti, 
are shovv^n on the right of Central or Sculpture 
Hall, and with the Shrine of St. Sebald, affords the 
student an opportunity of comparing the two chief 
works of art in metal by these masters of the 
Italian and German schools. 

The Sculpture galleries contain examples oi 
work illustrating the different periods of art history 
from Egyptian art at the time of Amenophis III. 
to Italian art at the time of Michael Angelo. 

Among the important works of Greek art may 



SAIXT LOUIS 99 

be mentioned casts from the orii^inal marbles of the 
groups taken from the west pediment of the temple 
of Aegina, now in the Glyptothek, Munich ; the 
celebrated Hermes, with the infant Dionysos, l)y 
Praxiteles, discovered at Olympia in 1877 ; selec- 
tions from the Elgin marbles in the British Mu- 
seum, comprising the Frieze of the Parthenon 
(west side) and others. 

There is also a large collection of pottery and 
carvings, reproductions of the Pompeian bronzes, 
and some paintings of the modern schools of 
Russia, Spain, France, Germany and Italian. On 
the Museum building itself, are two bronze Grif- 
fins, by A. Phimister Proctor, and five symbolic 
statues, by Elwel, Linder, Jaegers, Gellert and He- 
ber, and three High Reliefs, by Hermon ]MacNeil, 
will be placed in the near future over the front en- 
trance, representing "Music", "Architecture" and 
"Literature". 

A bronze tablet, nine and one-half by four and 
one half feet, and costing over three thousand dol- 
lars, will be placed in one of the walls of this 
Museum. One half of the tablet showing a birds- 
eye view of the Exposition, the other half bearing 
an inscription commemorative of the object of the 
Exposition and the erection of the Art Museum. 

Dr. Paul Clemens, of Bonn University, who 
might be styled the German imperial connoisseur, 
has said that the Saint Louis Museum of Fine 
Arts possessed the best nucleus of valuable paint- 
ings and statuary of any similar institution in 
America. 

Most of the exhibits in this building are the 
property of Washington University. 



100 



SAINT LOUIS 




First Church in Saint Louis, 1770, Second and Walnut. 



CHURCHES. 

The old Cathedral (Catholic) is one of the 
historic structures of the City, and a monument 
to the pioneer Catholic settlers. It is on Walnut 
and Second Streets, and marks the spot where was 
built the first church, of loes, in Saint Louis in 



//' 



Father Gibault celebrated the first mass 



Through Bishop Rosati, the first Bishop of 
Saint Louis, and builder of this Cathedral, who 
was a class mate of Gregory XA"I, this church ob- 
tained favors which no other church has in the 
world, except the Basilicas in Rome. One of the 
most noteworthy favors granted by the Pope, was 
an indulgence which is only granted to pilgrims 
A'isiting the seven Roman Basilicas. By special 
indult this indulgence may be gained by visiting 
the three altars in the Saint Louis Cathedral, 
though no other church or Cathedral is so pri- 
vileged. 

In striking contrast to the first home of logs, 



SAINT LOUIS 



101 




Old Cathedral, Second and Walnut, Still Standing. 



102 



SAIXr LOUIS 



will be the new Cathedral, to be erected on Lindell 
Boulevard, Newstead and Maryland Avenues, 
when finished to represent one of the most mag- 
nificent of modern American Cathedrals. Some 
idea of its magnitude may be obtained from a com- 
parison of some of its dimensions with the great 
\A^estminster, London. 

The greatest length of 
hundred and sixty feet — the 
three hundred and eighty ; 
AVestminster one hundred 
Saint Louis Cathedral two 
the clear open Auditorium 
thousand feet — Saint Louis Cathedral fifteen thou- 
sand three hundred feet, in all its proportions be- 
ing larger than W^estminster, with an ultimate 
seating capacity of between four thousand and four 
thousand five hundred people. 



AVestminster is three 
Saint Louis Cathedral, 
the greatest width of 
and seventeen feet — 

hundred and twelve ; 

Westminster, twelve 




Cathedral, East Elevation. 



S.-^fXr LOCUS 103 

The corner stone, of ])olished Alissouri o'ranite. 
was laid ( )ctober i8, 1908, two hours and fifteen 
minutes being- required for the parade of forty 
thousand Catholics to pass the reviewing- stand, 
being the largest demonstration of the kind in the 
history of the Catholic church of the \\^est. 

The plan of the building is a beautiful de- 
velopment with broad large nave and circular 
transepts, continuous ambulatories encircling the 
entire structure, both in main and clere story, and 
connecting, in a convenient manner, each and 
every feature of the building without entering or 
crossing the nave, transepts, sanctuary or chapels. 
W^hile the building is original in composition and 
possesses an individuality all its own, which will 
make it known and spoken of as "The Cathedral 
of Saint Louis", in the details and character of 
the exterior, it is of a pure type of Romanesque, 
the motifs having been studied from the most ex- 
alted examples of the style as found in the great 
churches throughout the south of France. 

The interior design is developed on true lines 
of the best examples of Byzantine, the earliest and 
most beautiful of all Christian architecture, and 
lends itself in the highest degree to decorative 
motifs, both mural and mosaic. With its many 
columns of rare and varied colored marbles, sur- 
mounted with gilded, carved caps, walls to spring 
of arches, lined with old convent sienna, rich in tone 
and varied in grain, the spandrile above arches, band 
courses, architraves and balustrades of highly il- 
luminated inlaid mosaic, with varied interlacing 
patterns, pendentives and tynpanums, all brought 
into harmony of tone and elegance of design, pro- 
duce an interior superior to any in the country, 
and is intended to be almost barbaric in the gran- 
deur of colors. The murals and mosaics from the 
hands of masters, will make this edifice a religious 
art palace. 

The sanctuarv is flanked on either side hv 



104 



SAINT LOUIS 




<: = 



-««&.i>Agr ««» 



SAIXT LOUIS 105 

large and imposing chapels, dedicated to the 
Blessed Sacrament on the right and Our Lady 
on the left. Another beautiful feature of the in- 
terior is the entrance to the crypt in the basement, 
through broad marble stairways, descending into 
same and protected by large imposing buttresses 
and balustrades. 

The marbles for the interior will be of the 
old convent Sienna, Alps green, Rose Numidian 
and Pavanazzo and other rare and colored marbles, 
highly polished and selected to be in full harmony 
with decorative motifs. The building is to be 
absolutely fireproof, the glass being secured in the' 
walls in bronze frames, and the doors of ornamen- 
tal cast bronze in decorations illustrating the Bib- 
lical Historical events. 

Another Catholic edifice of striking beauty, is 
St. Alphonsus (Rock Church), on Grand and Fin- 
ney Avenues, being one of the most beautiful 
examples of pure Gothic architecture in the 
countrv, after St. Patrick's Cathedral in New 
York. "^ 

Christ's Church Cathedral (Episcopal), at the 
corner of Thirteenth and Locust Streets, claims a 
certain interest as the mother church and Cathed- 
ral of the Diocese of Missouri, and is the first 
parish of the Protestant Episcopal Church founded 
west of the Mississippi. The old articles of asso- 
ciation, yellow with age, bearing the date 1819, 
still hang in the chapter room. Among the sign- 
ers of this paper was Governor William Clark, 
explorer of the great West; Thomas F. Riddick, 
member of the Territorial Council ;- Governor Mc- 
Nair; AVilliam H. Ashley, Lieutenant-Governor of 
Missouri; Thomas H. Benton and other prominent 
men. 

In this church, one of the finest parish 
churches of the continent, are a number of me- 
morial windows, among them one to George 
Rogers Clark. The great organ is a memorial to 



106 * SAIXT LOUIS 

Captain Silas Bent, who served this church for six- 
teen years as Vestryman and \\^arden, and made 
many generous contributions. He was a naval 
officer and with Commodore Perry when he opened 
Japan to the outside world, and a son of Silas Bent 
who in ,1807 was first Judge of the Court of Com- 
m.on Pleas for the district of Saint Louis, in 1809 
presiding Judge of the Saint Louis Court and 
signed the first town charter. In 181 1 becoming 
Supreme Judge of the Territory. 

A group of buildings on Kingshighway, in- 
cluding several churches, is well worth visiting. 
St. John's ]\Iethodist Episcopal Church South in 
this group, is ideal, developed in classic simplicity, 
neither pure Greek nor pure Roman, but belong- 
ing to the Italian Renaissance of the Fifteenth 
Century, a style used by some of the finest 
churches in the world. The ornamentation chosen 
for the columns in the great northern and eastern 
facades are of the chaste Ionic type. The corner 
stone was laid in 1901. 

The Second Baptist Church, and First Church 
of Christ (Scientist) are by Mauran, Russell & 
Garden, architects. 

The First Church was built in 1905. A very 
beautiful building of brick and stone of Renais- 
sance design, with good simple detail, and an at- 
tached portico of the Doric order. The landscape 
effect of the grounds is very charming. 

Temple Israel, on an opposite corner from St. 
John's and the Second Baptist, is a magnificent 
building of stone, also completed in the fall of 
1908. A Roman Temple, costing $200,000, in the 
Corinthian order, with stone columns and richly 
carved capitals and frieze. (Barnet, Haynes & 
Barnet, architects.) The entire interior is exe- 
cuted in Caen stone, making a marked contrast 
with the rich colors of the windows and the Pom- 
peian green bronze of the chandeliers and fixtures. 



SAINT LOUIS 



107 




108 SAIXT LOUIS 

The windows, which are memorials, show sym- 
bols of the Jewish faith. 

A most artistic paneling of glass mosaic is 
placed around the inclosure within the wall for 
''the ark of the covenant", and is unlike anything 
that has ever been done in the West. This gold 
and iridescent mosaic changes with every change 
of the light and air, never appearing alike on any 
two days, and its opalescent hues vary as the 
spectator stands in different parts of the building. 
This decoration, surrounded by beautifully de- 
signed grill work, is all within a great arch whose 
purpose is to conceal the organ pipes. The rich 
gallery of bronze over the organ has upon it, 
placed in relief, the ten commandments and 
"Crown of the Law", with rays of light radiating 
from the tablets. The rabbi's study is designed 
in old English, handsomely wainscoted and 
paneled in bog oak, the walls in delft blue. A 
massive fireplace is constructed of Gray Roman 
brick with carved stone corbels supporting the 
massive shelf. 

The Second Baptist, completed in the fall of 
1908, possibly presents more unique features than 
any others of this group. It is Italian Gothic, pe- 
culiar to churches of Lombardy. The church and 
chapel are two separate buildings, connected by 
an open cloister at the front, and a closed arcade 
in the rear, forming a Court with sunken pool and 
gardens. At the center of the rear of the court 
rises a graceful Campanile, two hundred and fif- 
teen feet in height, reminiscent of the best towers 
in Italy. This tower was the gift of Mr. Francis 
H. Ludington, who appropriated $35,000 for that 
purpose and also contributed liberally to the build- 
ing 

Within a block of these churches is the Tuscan 
Lodge (Masonic), by Albert B. Groves, at the 
northwest corner of Kingshighway and West- 
minster Boulevards, completed in 1908. A Doric 



SAINT LOUIS 



100 




W ^m^^ '\%jm%m 



««s<^ fefJi^'i 




Second Baptist Church. 

Temple, built of brick and stone, with carefully 
studied Greek detail, perhaps the most successful 
study of this style in Saint Louis. Mr. Scott 
Blewett is master of this lodge, whose membership 
comprises many prominent Saint Louisans. 

The Second Presbyterian Church, on the 
northwest corner of Taylor Avenue and \\>st- 
minster Place, is a beautiful building of stone, built 
in 1901. T. C. Link, the architect, used in the ex- 
terior design Romanesque, made popular by H. H. 
Richardson. This building is very massive in de- 
tail, with carved foliage in capitals. The central 
tower strongly resembles that of Trinity Chur(!h, 
Boston, which in turn was modeled closely after 
that of the Cathedral of Salamanca in Spain. The 
interior shows Romanesque detail with strong 
touches of Byzantine, and the beauty is enhanced 
by many stained glass windows of good design, by 
Tififanv and others. 



110 SAIXT LOUIS 

On Union Avenue, near Delmar Avenue, in 
another attractive group of buildings, is the Pil- 
grim Congregational Church, built of rock faced, 
red Missouri granite, trimmed with blue Bedford 
stone. This building of pure Romanesque, cost 
$250,000. (Russell, Mauran & Garden, archi- 
tects.) One of the especial features is the great 
triple window in the front. 

The pews are darkened quartered oak, and the 
walls richly paneled in the same material, the color 
scheme deepening toward the massive oeams 
above, which are mediaeval in etfect. 

The clock and beautiful chimes of the oid 
edifice were used in this new building. 

Within a block is the new Union Avenue Chris- 
tian Church, built of buff Bedford stone with gra- 
nite steps and base, and a red tile roof, a beautiful 
example of the Italian Romanesque style of archi- 
tecture. There are two parts to the building, the 
auditorium and the chapel building, l^oth under 
the same roof and connected by spacious vesti- 
bules at the north and south. The nave and tran- 
septs of the main auditorium are surmounted by 
barrel vaults and the central space with groin 
vaulting, in the center of which is worked a glass 
quatrifoil which is filled with art glass through 
which a soft mellow light streams through the 
auditorium. This room is designed in the Byzan- 
tine style, of which St. Mark's, in Venice, and 
St. Sophia, at Constantinople, are splendid exam- 
ples. The baptistry is finished in white Italian 
marble with a waterfall in the rear. (Albert B. 
Groves, architect.) 

Near this church is the Central Presbyterian 
Church by Mariner and Labeaume. Built in 1907 
of brick, with stone trimmings, in modern version 
of Gothic. The interior is brick with timber ceil- 
ings. The tower remains incomplete. 

Two memorial windows of great artistic 
beauty were unveiled in 1908, in memory of the 



SAIXT LOUIS 111 

late A. l\ Shapleigh and wife. These windows 
are in mosaic, each window has ahiiost a dozen 
hg-ures and the two windows contain about fourteen 
thousand pieces, representing "Charity'' and "The 
Adoration of the Wise J\fen". Another window 
of special note, is that donated by ]\Irs. Rolla 
Wells in memory of her father and mother, Henry 
Lloyd Parker and Jane Howard Parker. This 
window, designed by Tiffany of New York, has a 
central figure with two adoring ♦angels. The 
organ in this church is a memorial by the Hodg- 
man family in honor of their brother, Charles 
Hodgman. 

CLUBS. 

The Saint Louis Club, at 3663 Lindell Boule- 
vard, is one of the fashionable young men's clubs 
of the City, organized in 1878.' The building is 
copied after the French chateau, and built of 
stone, with entrances on Lindell Boulevard and 
Olive Street. The principal feature of the interior 
is the grand stairway in gold, marble and wrought 
iron. The ladies' cafe is paneled in rose brocade 
silk, and the walls of the large ball room are in 
silk tapestry. The library is finished and furnished 
in solid mahogany, the walls paneled in rich green 
leather embellished with gold, further adorned 
with paintings of the most prominent ex-presi- 
dents. The large dining room is in Pompeiarj 
red. 

The Saint Louis Club is the scene of manv. 
if not most, of the brilliant social functions held 
in Saint Louis. Many of the debutantes are given 
their initial ball here, and prominent visitors are 
always extended the hospitality of the Club. It 
was here that Prince Henry of Prussia was enter- 
tained when he visited Saint Louis in 1902, and 
during the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, practi- 
cally all the notables in attendance were enter- 
tained bv the Club. 



1J2 



SAINT LOUIS 




SAINT LOUIS 113 

One of the most brilliant receptions ever held 
in Saint Louis was given here during the Expo- 
sition, at which every foreign government was re- 
presented by its titled representative. 

Resident membership in this Club is limited to 
six hundred, non-resident, three hundred, and life 
members to fifty. 

The UNIVERSITY CLUB, at Grand and 
Washington Avenues, is the oldest club in the 
City, having been organized in December 1871. 
with its first home on Ninth Street, now occupied 
by the Century building, and at that time con- 
sidered a long way from the business section. 

The first intention was to admit only gradu- 
ates of L^niversities and Colleges, but it was 
finally agreed that one-fifth might be noivgradu- 
ates. In 1874 even this restriction was removed, 
and membership placed upon the same basis as in 
any other social club. However, the first idea has 
prevailed, and the membership is largely College 
men. 

This club after occupying many homes, in 
1896 purchased the old Allen home, the present 
building, which in a manner is commemorative of 
its first president, Honorable Thomas Allen. 

The MERCANTILE CLUB, at the south- 
west corner of Seventh and Locust Streets, was 
organized in October 1881, with a chartered life of 
one thousand years. The object being "for the 
education in, and discussion of themes tending to 
train its members in sentiments of good will and 
morality in the community, and the promotion of 
the public welfare." 

It has been the policy of the members to so 
conduct this club, that the most honorable busi- 
ness men or citizens would be honored by a mem- 
bership therein. 

In 1893, the present club building, of stone 
and brick, was completed at a cost of more than 
four hundred thousand dollars — 1. S. Tavlor, archi- 
tect. 



114 SAIXT LOUIS 

The COLUMBIAN CLUB, at 3909 Lindell 
Boulevard, is the leading Hebrew club of the City. 
In' 1893 its building was erected at a cost of one 
hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars. 

This club house is a massive sc^uare building 
of yellow brick, with white stone trimmings, es- 
pecial attention having been given to the front 
facade. The interior is rich in elegant simplicity. 

This club was organized in May 1892. 

The ARTIST'S GUILD, one of the artistic 
buildings on L^nion Avenue, is the club house of 
Saint Louis artists, where are found representative 
works of such artists as C. G. Waldeck ; Fred Car- 
penter, now studying abroad; E. H. A\Tierpel ; 
F. O. Sylvester ; O. E. Berninghaus ; Dawson AVat- 
son ; Sylvester P. Annan and G. Wolf, in oil, and 
in water colors by F. H. Woolrych ; busts and pot- 
tery by Miss Jones, Messrs. Bringhurst and Zol- 
nay ; book binding by Miss Bulkly, and statuary 
by Aliss Schulenberg. 

On the east wall, facing the entrance, is a 
frieze by Mr. Charles H. Field (formerly a student 
in the Saint Louis School of Fine Arts) and M. 
Casteluccio, of Paris. It is a copy of an original 
decoration done by Puvis de Chavannes for the 
French government, which original occupies the 
lower part of the wall space that extends in a half 
ellipse at the rear of the Speaker's platform in the 
great auditorium of the Sorbonne (L^niversity of 
Paris). 

On the first and third Thursday evenings of 
each month the members are entertained at dinner 
in the artistic rathskeller, and on Sunday after- 
noons tea is served to the public who may visit the 
building. 

The Burns Club also holds its meetings in this 
building, and on the second floor have an interest- 
ing room furnished with relics of Robert Burns. 
THE RACQUET CLUB, on Kingshighway, 



SAIXT LOUIS 115 

near the group of church edifices, is the latest arl- 
dition to the clubs of Saint Louis. 

This large and imposing club building was 
opened on January i, 1908, and contains besides 
the usual club features, a handsome living room 
sixty-six feet by thirty-seven feet ; racquet and 
hand-ball courts ; plunge and Turkish baths and 
sixteen bed rooms for members. 

The present membership is three hundred and 
twenty-eight. 

A number of country clubs have beautiful 
grounds and club buildings adjacent to Saint Louis, 
where golf and other outdoor sports are enjoyed. 
Notably the "Country Club", near Clayton; the 
"Glen Echo", on the Ferguson line; the "Norman- 
dy", on the St. Charles road ; the Algonquin and 
others. 

Two women's clubs form a feature of the social 
life in Saint Louis, namely, "The Wednesday Club" 
and "The Saint Louis Woman's Club". 

Of these tw^o, the Wednesday Club is the 
larger, organized in 1889 as the Shelly Club, and 
in 1890 re-organized as the "Wednesday Club". 
The membership the first year being limited to one 
hundred, now the membership limit is five hundred. 
In October, 1908, this club opened a new club 
house, at Westminster and Taylor avenues. It is 
an attractive two-story building costing forty-five 
thousand dollars. 

Entering on Westminster is the main hall. The 
first floor is devoted to an auditorium which seats 
six hundred people. It is decorated in panels, with 
a beamed ceiling. A ^, small gallery on the left, 
known as the "cozy comer", is furnished in whicker 
and mahogany. Adjoining this room on the north 
is a library and reading room. 

A much admired painting, by F. G. Carpenter, 
has been presented to the club by Mr. W. K. Bix- 
by, and a handsome mahogany table is the gift of 
the founders of the club. 



IIG SAINT LOUIS 

The Saint Louis A\^oman's Club was organized 
in 1903, and now has a membership of two hun- 
dred and twenty-eight, containing the names of 
some of the most prominent women in Saint Louis. 
This Club leased the old Shapleigh home, at 3621 
Washington boulevard, which, furnished in rich 
hangings, handsome furniture and beautiful, large, 
gilt framed mirrors, makes a delightful club 
house. 

In the double parlors, the decorations are in 
dark green, with mahogany furniture — the library 
and tea rooms being furnished with oak in mission 
style, the pictures etchings by James Montgomery 
Fla gg. 

The large ball room is in pink, the hangings 
of silk and velvet. Here are held balls, large re- 
ceptions, theatricals, etc. A small stage making 
the latter possible. 

Mrs. John O'Fallon Delaney is president, and 
Miss Sophie Sloan, secretary. 




SAINT LOUIS 117 

HOTELS. 

The Southern Hotel is the oldest first-class 
hotel in the city. 

A company was chartered in 1857 to supply the 
city with hotel accommodations which should in all 
respects equal those of the older and larger cities 
of the United States, and a block bounded by 
Fourth, Walnut, Fifth and Elm streets was pur- 
chased as a site. Work was begun in 1858, but the 
building was not completed until in 1865, due prin- 
cipally to the disturbances of war. This building 
was destroyed by fire in April 1877. The work of 
rebuilding began in 1879, and in May 1881 a new 
fire-proof building was opened with a grand ball, 
one of the well remembered society CA^ents of Saint 
Louis. 

The tickets were $10.00 for gentlemen, and 
$5.00 for ladies, the invitations, programmes and 
tickets costing about $1,500.00 and the floral decor- 
ations $2,500.00. 

On entering the Southern hotel one is im- 
pressed with its spaciousness and homelike ele- 
gance. The halls and parlors compare favorably 
with the Weisser Saal of the Berlin castle, or the 
finest salons of the French capital. The mantles 
in the public and ladies' parlors are of solid ma- 
hogany, faced with Mexican onyx. The ceilings 
are in handsome fresco. 

One of the attractive features of the hotel is 
the ladies' ordinary, between the grand dining 
room and the rotunda. It is of oval octagon shape, 
sixty-two by thirty feet, and has glass walls, and 
octagonal skylight in the apex of the ceiling. In 
the fresco work overhead are fishing and hunting 
scenes and game pieces. 

The rotunda of this building is the largest of 
any hotel in the world. Leading from this to the 
gentlemen's smoking room is the grand stairway, 
of brass and marble. The newel posts being life 



Hi 



SAINT LOUIS 




SAIXT LOUIS 



119 



size bronze iigures l)earing- lights. At the head 
of the first landing are three exquisite art windows, 
bv Tififany, of New York, the central one illustrat- 
ing one of A\^ordsworth's poems. 

In the smoking room is an immense painting 
bv Groves. 




Planter's Hotel, Saint Louis. 

The new PLANTER'S HOTEL bears the 
name and occupies the site of the famous old hos- 
telry which for one-half of a century was the lead- 
ing hotel of Saint Louis. 

It is located on the west side of Fourth street, 
and its ten stories and basement cover the entire 
one-half block between Pine and Chestnut streets. 
It is a thoroughly fire-proof structure, of steel, 



120 SAIXT LOUIS 

stone and brick, and each of the four hundred guest 
rooms overlooks one of the three thorouo^hfares on 
which it is situated. 

The French renaissance decorations of the ro- 
tunda, corridors and office ; the grand staircase 
with its bronze ornaments, magnificent allegorical 
painting, and elliptical stained glass sky-light lead- 
ing to the parlors and main dining-room — all be- 
speak elegance, comfort and luxury. From the 
cozy corner, back of the elevators, arranged for a 
ladies' reception room, a stairway leads to the 
second floor, opening at the half landing into the 
entresol, a nook furnished with Oriental divans, 
rugs and cushions, from which the ladies can over- 
look the lobby. 

On the second floor is the main parlor, and 
adjoining this, on the Fourth street front, and 
separated from it by Moorish arches and screens, 
is the Turkish smoking-room. Its Moorish decora- 
tions, mantel, armor and couches, give it a splen- 
did luxuriance truly Oriental. 

The decorations of the bed rooms vary in style, 
^ome are in Louis X\^L, some in Renaissance, 
some in Empire and others in Colonial. 

Under the same management as the Planter's, 
is the HOTEL JEFFERSON, which is to Saint 
Louis what the Waldorf-Astoria is to New York. 

This hotel was opened in 1904, and is a mag- 
nificent edifice, occupying an imposing situation on 
Twelfth street, the broadest thoroughfare in Saint 
Louis, and extends from Locust to St. Charles 
streets. 

The building is fireproof, built of light brick and 
trimmed with buff bedford stone, and is of com- 
manding architectural interest in plain renaissance 
style. 

The entire first floor represents the handsomest 
interior west of New York City. Costly marbles, 
wrought and cast bronze designs, and beautiful 



SAINT LOUIS 



121 




122 



SAINT LOUIS 



arabesques, have been used to produce a magnifi- 
cent ensemble. 

The ladies' parlor is one of the most beautiful 
in the Ignited States, finished entirely in gold, with 
tapestry walls, after the style of Louis XV. Over 
the doors are mural decorations, carrying out the 
atmosphere of the period. Carpets and furniture 
for this room were imported from Europe. 

The rotunda, in Louis XVL style, is lined with 
imported Pavanazzo marble. The stairway is in 
gold bronze, the railing being worked out in beau- 
tiful designs. The mural frieze extends around the 
entire rotunda, illustrating the development and 
progress of the West, from the time of the early 
French settlers to the Louisiana Purchase Exposi- 
tion. This frieze is done in beautiful colors to har- 
monize with the tints of the marble and bronze. 

The gentlemen's cafe, the handsomest room, 
is designed in modern French Renaissance. The 
relief work throughout this room on ceilings and 
wall panels is bold and elegant in treatment. The 
walls are wainscoted in dark Alps green marble. 

The interior woodwork of the first fioor is 
mahogany, with the exception of the library, which 
is done in Elizabethan style, in gold. 

The Jefferson has added a new innovation in 
the tea room, which is located on south mezzanine 
floor. 

The furnishings are strictly Japanese and 
lighted with unique Japanese lamps and moonlight 
effect through the stained glass skylights. The 
service is by Japanese servants. 




SA/XT LOUIS 133 



HOSPITALS. 

In 1823 application was made to the comniunit)' 
at Emmittsburg, Maryland, to procure Sisters of 
Charity to open a hospital in Saint Louis, property 
having- been donated l)y ?^[r. John Alullanphy for 
that purpose. 

It was not until 1828 that this request was 
granted, at which tinie four Sisters arrived and took 
charge of the first hospital in Saint Louis, and the 
first West of the Mississippi. 

This hospital was opened in a log house, con- 
taining two rooms and a kitchen, on Spruce street, 
between Third and Fourth streets, under the 
auspices of the Saint Louis Hospital Association, 
and afterwards became known as the Mullanphy, 
which name is still borne by one of Saint Louis 
leading hospitals, now located at ]\Iontgomery ave- 
nue, northeast corner of Bacon street. 

Two of the largest and best equipped hospitals 
in Saint Louis, and possibly the finest, are located 
on Delmar avenue — The Jewish Hospital, at 5415, 
and the St. Luke's Hospital (Episcopal), at SSOi- 

These two buildings are very similar in ex- 
terior design, both strictly fireproof, with beautiful 
grounds, away from the smoke and other impurities 
and overlooking Forest Park, affording a delightful 
view for the patients. 

An attractive feature of St. Luke's is the tiled 
entrance, furnished in mission style, the wainscot- 
ing of the walls in marble. On each floor is a 
corridor, extending the width of the building, and 
electric elevators are a novel convenience. 

In the corridor of the first floor is a hand- 
some memorial tablet to perpetuate the memory 
of those who had furnished memorial rooms in the 
old building, a custom discontinued in 1903. 

This tablet was designed and made by the 
Gorham Manufacturing Co., of New York, at a 
cost of five hundred dollars. It is of bronze, verde 



124 



SAINT LOUIS 




SAINT LOUIS 125 

antique finish, high lights brightened, showing the 
bronze through the green, with a border of ivy, 
and is mounted on a slab of red Numidian marble. 

In the entrance of the Jewish Hospital are 
two tablets, one bearing the names of the first 
officers and directors — the other the names of the 
medical staff. A wing of this building is the gift 
of Mr. Julius Lesser, in memory of his wife. 

The City Hospital was founded in 1845 ^t the 
head of Soulard street, between Lime street and 
Lafayette avenue, which site was originallv oc- 
cupied by the Saint Louis cemetery. 

Twice the City Hospital has been destroyed, 
first in 1856, by fire, with the loss of only one 
life, and again in 1896, by the terrible tornado of 
that year, when three lives were lost out of the 
four hundred and fifty patients. 

The present buildings are located at Four- 
teenth, Carroll, Grattan and Lafayette avenue. 

The contract has been awarded for a new ad- 
dition to this hospital, to consist of an administra- 
tion building and two four-story pavilion ward 
buildings, to cost seven hundred and twenty-nine 
thousand dollars. These additions will make the 
Saint Louis City Hospital one of the most com- 
plete institutions of its kind in the world. 




126 



SAINT LOUIS 




Woman's Magazine Building, University City. 



SAI.XT LOUIS 127 

WOMAN'S MAQAZINE AND NA TIONJL 
DjlILY BUILDING. 

Located in University City, bordering on 
Forest Park, and the western boundary of Saint 
Louis, are two buildings of much interest. 

The Woman's Magazine building, of stone, 
marble and terra cotta, Avith a dome of copper, 
is the executive building of the Lewis Publishing 
Company. 

This building is one hundred and thirty-five 
feet high, and with the press room in the rear, oc- 
cupies five and one-half acres of ground. It is 
one of the most beautiful structures in the countr) , 
and during the Louisiana Purchase Exposition wis 
visited by more than one million people. 

On the top of the dome is the largest search- 
light in the world. The cherubs on the cornices 
are each ten feet in height, while the four lions 
guarding the entrances are each twelve feet in 
length, and the height of a man. The cost of this 
building was $550,000. 

The Egyptian building of the WOMAN'S 
NATIONAL DAILY,, facing the Woman's Maga- 
zine building, is two hundred feet long, eighty-five 
feet wide, and sixty-five feet high, built of solid 
concrete, six feet thick at the base, and faced on 
all sides with polished white Georgia marble — the 
cornices are of bronze and copper. This building 
was erected at a cost of one quarter of a million 
dollars. 

The great hall within, with its massive columns 
reaching to the ceiling, and its frieze and decora- 
tions finished in pure Egyptian style, form a beau- 
tiful and unique press room. With the largest and 
finest equipment in the Avorld, it has a "printing 
capacity of five thousand copies of the Woman's 
National Daily, folded and delivered, per minute — 
three hundred thousand complete eight page news- 
papers per hour. 



128 



SAINT LOUIS 







sAixr LOVIS 



r^9 



This plant in oper- 
ation each day is a 
wonderful sight. 

A new press room 
and mailing house has 
recently been complet- 
ed, covering a floor 
space of three hundred 
and seventy by one 
hundred and eight feet. 
This building is 
also of concrete. 

University City 
was founded in 1906 by 
:\Ir. E. G. Lewis, of 
the Lewis Publishing 
Company, a n d w h o 
from its incorporation 
has served as its 
Mayor. 

It is the intention 
of Mr. Lewis to make 
this little city (suburb 
of Saint Louis) the 
most magnificent resi- 
dence place in the 
country. In order to 
do this, he has made a great restricted private 
residence park, where saloons, flats, stables and 
other objectionable features are barred for all time. 
In addition, the entire neighborhood on all sides 
is also restricted, something that cannot be said ot 
any other American city on such a large and pei- 
fect scale as here. 

The Main entrance is marked by a forty thou- 
sand dollar archwav over Delmar avenue flanked 
on either side bv 'the Woman's National Daily 
buildiniv and the Woman's ^lagazine building. 

Delmar avenue, the main boulevard, eighty 
feet wide, extends from the city limits to Hanley 




First Printing Press West of the Missis 
sippi 1808 (See Page 33) 



SAIXT LOUIS 




SAINT LOUIS 



131 



ruacl, a distance of a mile and a qnarter, and at 
the intersection of these two driveways, on an im- 
posing elevation, the United Daughters of the Con- 
federacy are to erect a magnificent monument. 

]\Iany other fine boulevards, finished with Tel- 
ford roadways, traverse the city, which is still to 
be made more beautiful by parks, fountains, orna 
mental gateways, artistic lighting, etc. 

Just east of the Woman's Magazine building 
is to be a group of six buildings, that will con- 
stitute the luiiversity of the American Woman's 
League. Of this group is the two hundred thou- 
sand dollar Art Institute, now nearing completion. 
This building wnll be in charge of Taxile Doat, 
bTench ceramic artist, who at one time was with 
the Sevres National Potteries, and who will place 
his fine private collection in this museum, and other 
famous artists. 

Over three millions of dollars have alreadv 




E. G. Lewis' Residence, University City. 



133 



S.IIXT LOUIS 



been expended in private homes and 

tions in University City. The buildings are open 

at all times to visitors. 




University City. 



CEMETERIES. 

The modern cemetery combines the park with 
the cemetery in its design and arrangement. Na- 
ture in all her beauty is utilized and trained to fit 
in the plan of the landscape gardener. 

Trees, shrubs and flowers are arranged as fig- 
ures, all combined to make the resting place of the 
dead one of loveliness, quiet and repose, an in- 
viting spot, frequented not only by the families 
of the dead, but by strangers and visitors to the 
city. Such is the site of the burial i:)laces of vSaint 
Louis. 

Benjamin Franklin said, "Show me your ceme- 
teries, and 1 will tell you what T think of your 
people." 



S.UNT LOUIS rr,) 

BELLEFONTAINE CEAIETERY, coverincr 
an area of three hundred and fifty acres, the largest 
Protestant cemetery in the city, is noted for its 
natural scenery and artificial beauty. It is the 
burial place of many of our Generals and Gover- 
nors of the state, and prominent citizens of Saint 
Louis. 

In October, 1904, there was unveiled in this 
cemetery a magnificent shaft over the grave of 
Governor William Clark. General Sterling Price, 
who was also Governor of the state; Governor 
Fletcher; General Bonneville; Manuel Lisa; Tho- 
mas H. Benton; Governor John Miller and General 
Frank P. Blair are among the prominent persons 
buried here. Monumental shafts and elaborate 
tombs and headstones mark the resting places of 
many who have been eminent in the affairs of the 
city. 

This cemetery lies on the west side of the Belle- 
fontaine road, running from the city north, and 
takes its name ^'Beautiful Fountain" from the old 
fort by that name that once stood in the northeast 
corner of Saint Louis county near the mouth of 
the Missouri river. 

CALVARY CEAIETERY, covering four hun- 
dred and fifty acres, with a total of ninety thousand 
interments, had its inception in the little church 
yard surrounding the first church of Saint Louis. 

It lies north of and adjoining Bellefontaine 
Cemetery, and the site was purchased from the son 
of Henry Clay, by Archbishop P. R. Kcnrick. 
founder of this cemetery. 

A short distance from the entrance on Floris- 
sant avenue, brings one in view of the clusters of 
monuments — the tall shaft to the memory of Charles 
Slevin, thirty-five feet high and surmounted with 
a statue of the Immaculate Conception; the marble 
vault of Thomas Biddlc ; the vault of Mrs. Ann 
Hunt, of Italian marble, the large Gothic monu- 
ment of Bryan Mullanphy ; the sarcophagus of 
Archbishop Kenrick, made of granite and bearing 
his coat of arms, and of General Sherman. 



134 SAIXT LOUIS 



SCENIC POINTS NEAR ST. LOUIS. 

CREVE COEUR LAKE, "the lake of the 
l)r()ken heart," a1)out thirteen and one-half miles 
from Delmar Garden, was formerly the bed of the 
^Missouri river. 

This magnificent lake, several miles in length. 
lies at the foot of a high cliff of surpassing artistic 
beauty. Through picturesque woodlands, inter- 
spersed with rustic seats and bridges, a scenic 
railway winds around the top of this cliff and into 
the ravines, giving one an entrancing view. Boat 
riding is also provided for, where one may spend 
delightful hours. 

'.MERAArEC HIGHLANDS, about twenty 
miles from the city, attracts many who wish to get 
away from the noise and closeness of the city and 
s])end an enjoyable evening in the country air, 
where boating and sw^imming ma}^ be indulged in. 

It is reached by a delightful car ride through 
several of Saint Louis" most attractive suburbs, 
and can also be reached by train. 

Both Creve Coeur Lake and the ]\Ieramec 
have an added charm by reason of the many legen- 
dary love stories connected with them from the 
earlv Indian davs. 

JEFFERSC)X BARRACKS, located about ten 
miles below Saint Louis, on the Iron ^Mountain 
Railroad, is one of the most noted landmarks on 
the Mississippi river. 

It is so named in honor of Thomas Jeft'erson. 
whose death occurred just previous to the first 
occupation of the site by General Stephen W. 
Kearney, to whom belongs the honor of being 
the first immediate commander of troops, occupy- 
ing this military post in 1826. 

This site, on an elevation overlooking the 
Mississippi river, is large and beautiful, and for 
salubrity could not ])e surpassed. A movement 
has been started to make this post one of the 



SAINT LOUIS 




A Spanish War Trophy, Jefferson Barracks. 



iLiTcatcsi military posts in the country, and to 
csta])lish a national highway from the southern 
limits of the city to the National cemeterv locates! 
here. 

iM-om Jefferson llarracks at diff"erent times 
(luring- its history, numerous expeditions ha\e 
started out for distant militar}- service or for ex- 
ploring purposes, and prior to the Civil War, man\- 
distinguished officers were stationed here, among 
them General Henry Atkinson, commander of the 
right wing of the \\'estern Department and hero 
of the Black Haw^k War; (General U. S. (irant; 
(jeneral Jefferson Davis, I 'resident of the Con- 
federacy: General Stephen ^^'atts Kearney, in com- 
mand of the California expedition in the AFexican 
War; (ieneral Winfield S. Hancock, Democratic 



136 SAINT LOUIS 

nominee for President ; General Joseph E. John- 
son, next to General Lee as a Confederate com- 
mander; General Robert E. Lee, the Confederate 
chieftain; General John B. Hood; General Fitz- 
hugh Lee, and General D. M. Frost. 




George Rogers Clark By Elisu Ward) 
Prominent in the Conquest of the West. 



INDEX. 

Historical Data yj 

Fire Department 7 

Transportation 10 

Stockade and Fort 15 

Old Court House 17 

Old Shot Tower 19 

Big Mound 19 

McDowell College 20 

Camp Jackson 20 

Memorial Tablets 22 

Historic Residences and Buildings 24 

Missouri Hist. Society 33 

Union Station 39 

New Post Office 42 

Libraries 45 

Eads Bridge 49 

Merchants Exchange 51 

City Hall 53 

Coliseum 54 

Representative Business Houses 56 

Universities and Schools yo 

Parks and Shaw's Garden 85 

IMuseum of Fine Arts 95 

Churches 100 

Clubs Ill 

Hotels 117 

Hospitals . 123 

Woman's Magazine and National Daily lUiil- 

^li"R^ 127 

University City 129 

Cemeteries 132 

Scenic Points 134 



FROM UNION STATION. 

Group I — Union Station ; Missouri Historical 
Society ; Christ Church Cathedral ; New Public 
Library. 

(In walking distance of Union Station.) 

Group II — Saint Louis L^niversity and St. 
Xavier Church ; Saint Louis and Columbian 
Clubs (i). Coliseum (2). 

(i) Olive or Laclede car line west, transfer 
on Grand. 

(2) Laclede or Market west, transfer to Jef- 
ferson north. Eighteenth line, transfer to Page. 

Group III — Eads Bridge (i) ; Court House 
(2) ; Memorial Tablets (2) ; Libraries (2) ; Busi- 
ness Houses (2) ; Merchants Exchange (2) ; Old 
Cathedral (2); City Hall (3). 

(i) Compton or Park car line, north. 

(2) Compton or Park car line, north, transfer 
to Fourth. 

(3) Market or i8th car line, south. 

Group IV — Group of buildings on King's 
Highway (i) ; Main Entrance Forest Park (2) ; 
Bixby residence (2) ; Westmoreland and Portland 
Place (2) ; Buckingham Hotel (2) ; St. Regis 
Apartments (2). 

(i) Delmar, Olive or AlcPherson Olive car 
line, west. 

(2) Laclede car line, west. 

Group V — Shaw's Garden and Tower Grove 
Park ; Lafayette Park ; Wyman School. 

(Park car line, or Laclede or Olive, west, 
transfer to Vandeventer line.) 

Group VI — Group of buildings on Union Ave- 
nue ; Wm. Clark School ; McKinley and Soldan 
High Schools. 

(Delmar Olive line, or Page, west, transfer on 
Union.) 

Group VH — Art Museum (i) ; Washington 
University (2) ; University City (3). 

(i) McPherson Olive line, west. 

(2) Delmar Olive line, west, transfer to Clay- 
ton line, or Suburban line. 

(3) Deimar ( )live line, west. 



LEFe 10 



SAINT LOUIS 

Historical and Interesting 
PLACES 




IDRESS HEAD 



C»pf right, 1<'09 



